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Bent Street Beat

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If walls could talk…

Bent Street’s walls would fill a library!

The heart and center of Downtown Taos’ Historical District, Bent Street’s history epitomizes everything we imagine the Wild West to have been. From Zane Grey novels to Hollywood Westerns, more than a few stories of the Western Frontier start here.

Shootouts, hangings, marauding Comanches, Pueblo Revolt – it all happened here, on Bent Street. But Bent Street too was also a center for business and trade. As noted in Monday’s post, Charles Bent, the ill-fated Governor of the New Mexico Territory, had his home and a Trading Post here, although he worked in the capital of Santa Fe.

The last stop on the Camino Real, Taos was where the Plains Indians had long come to trade. Many tribes met here in fact, hence the continuity with Taos Pueblo’s modern day, Pow Wow.  But in the 18th Century, Taos was a major confluence for people coming from all over for various reasons; from Gold Diggers to Bounty Hunters; they all passed through here. And business thrived in the center of town, on Bent Street.

On the soundtrack for Sam Peckinpah’s Pat Garrett and Billy The Kid, Bob Dylan intones that: “the businessmen in Taos are out to get ya. Ah Billy they don’t like you to be so free.”

Well, ironically, free-spirited people have been drawn to Taos forever, and a certain freedom comes with the rugged territory; both freedom of expression and the free thinkers who live and work here, who refuse to be categorized in any way. Bent Street’s shops and their proprietors reflect that like the sun bouncing off their storefront windows!

Perhaps that’s why both Bent and his (posthumous), brother-in-law, Kit Carson are not considered heroes in these parts? Things have changed and these days the business men (and women), in Taos are as free-spirited as their patrons!

When you cross the Paseo from the historic Taos Inn, you can’t miss Taos Blue, situated at the top of the street, in what was once Taos Society of Artist’s co-founder, Bert Phillips’ home. When Sue Westbrook moved in almost thirty years ago, she rented only the tiny front space. Since then she has expanded her galley and emporium into the back of the house, reclaiming most of Phillips’ home, if not his studio which is rented by an artist, as it should be.

Known for American made,  Fine Arts & Crafts, Sue represents many artists and jewelers, makers of ceramics and weavings, functional, decorative and out of the ordinary furnishings, mirrors and lamps. Beautiful, hard to find lighting to illuminate the great pieces found here, inside the Blue door, with Corn Maiden standing sentinel.

She also has a large collection of Vintage Hats, Western and beyond, gorgeous leather bags, sculpture and wood carvings, metal work and much more. There’s no better place in Taos to start when looking for that special something for someone you love.

From great greeting cards, to a painting by Suzanne Betz, and everything in between, you’ll find it here. I’ve linked to their site below this post, and please see all posts tagged with Taos Blue for more on Sue and her shop!

Next door, in what was once part of the beloved Taos artist Ed Morgan;s studio,  La Chiripada Winery has a small outpost and tasting room. New Mexico’s oldest winery and vineyard, La Chiripada is owned and operated by the Johnson family. 

Many are not aware that New Mexico is in fact the oldest wine making region in the United States, beginning with grapes brought here by the Spanish Missionaries.

La Chiripada has only been making their award-winning wines for almost forty years, but they’ve long been a favourite destination spot for visitors to Taos. Their vineyard and tasting room are located in nearby Dixon, (Taos’ burgeoning wine country), so definitely plan a visit while you are here., but if your schedule does not permit a visit to the vineyard, pop into the Bent Street location for a tasting. Check the board outside for times.

And if you are looking for a unique gift for wine lovers back home, you need look no further. La Chiripada wines are also available for purchase in most places where good wines are sold, including at the Cellar in Taos. For much more info on both the winery and the wines, please visit their site linked below.

People come to Taos for a myriad of reasons, one undeniably being, the great outdoors! Mudd N Flood (which was once also part of Ed Morgan’s studio), is a locally owned Mountain Shop, specializing in gear, footwear and clothing for people with an outdoor lifestyle (or for those of you who forgot to pack your boots.) 

The store is owned and operated by Elana Lombard and Chris Pieper, who moved here soon after they married, and bought Mudd N Flood in 2001. Since then the couple have worked hard to keep abreast of all the ongoing advances and  changes in their industry, keeping their business firmly on the cutting edge.

They sell both technical apparel along with stylish, casual wear that can be worn both on the streets as well as during more strenuous activity! Look great while keeping fit – it’s a win win!

They offer gear for hiking, camping, rock-climbing, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing,

During the winter season they also rent cross-country skis and snow shoes. Their staff – all outdoor enthusiasts themselves, are friendly and helpful while providing expert advice that will ensure your safety during your outdoor adventures in High Country.

 For more about Mudd N Flood, please check out their link below as well.

Over the next few Wednesdays, we’ll visit more of the unique shops along Bent Street, please join me again for another stroll down the street in the heart of Taos’ Historical District.

taosblue

lachiripada

muddnflood

 

 

All images thanks to the Bent Street store owners, my iphone, stock files and Bill Curry (Taos Blue.)

curryimages

 

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Cabezon Peak

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All images Stock Files

 

The post Cabezon Peak appeared first on taoStyle.

The Season Of Art

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Taos is still a small town.

Small in size that is, bur not in terms of repute.

Nestled between the deep, black-walled gorge of the Rio Grande and the sage and juniper-dotted foothills of the Sangre de Christos  mountains, the name Taos, in the language of the inhabitants of nearby Taos Pueblo, means “place of the red willows.”  

Spaniards, Anglos and native Taoseños have shared the land for hundreds of years now; ranching, farming and trading.  And for the plein air painter, the light and the landscape is hard to beat, which is why Taos continues to attract visual artists more than a century after they first began arriving.

Taos is especially enchanting in the fall, when the cottonwoods turn yellow in the valley below the mountains, which are themselves glimmering golden from the turning aspens. 

This year the Blumenschein Museum is celebrating 100 years on the (art world) map coinciding with the Couse Foundation’s  upcoming open house, hard-hat tour, at the historic site( which includes a tour of the space for planned (Lunder) Research Center) on Sept 7th, serve as a prelude to Taos’ 43rd  Annual Fall Arts Celebration.

An Art Colony doesn’t just happen by accident. The Taos we know today is the result of more than 100 years of continual support of working artists  and truth be told, art has been a priority in Taos long before it was officially incorporated as a town in 1934 – it had already been an artist’s enclave for 30 years.

Taos’ reputation as a artist’s haven  belongs to six well-educated painters who called themselves the Taos Society of Artists, (founded in 1915.) Their concentrated efforts to expose the world to “Real American Art”  by entering their paintings of uniquely Southwestern images in traveling exhibits — eventually brought the Taos art colony international acclaim.

Now home to several museums and dozens of galleries, Taos remains a thriving art center, but perhaps at no time is the spirit of the Taos Society of Artists more alive and well than during this season when we celebrate the Arts aqui en Taos. This year, the 43rd Annual Taos Fall Arts Festival happens from  September 20 – 29, 2019 with several related events leading up to the actual Festival.

This week, the Annual TAO Studio Tour begins and runs through the weekend from Sat, Aug 31 – Mon, Sep 2. Check their site below this post for details.

On Friday and Saturday  September 13th and 14th,  the PASEO 2019 Festival takes over the Downtown Taos Historical District, bringing a unique convergence of art and technology to our streets for free! The PASEO is the ultimate community event that proves Taos continues to be a force on the cutting edge of the Arts. For much more information about this year’s event, please check out their site linked below as well.

Over the years, other art events including the one’s I mentioned above, have intentionally coincided  with Fall Arts, and consequently, the season has become a favorite time to visit and a unique opportunity to experience and celebrate the Arts, as well as the artists of Taos.

This year’s poster artist, Sasha Raphael vom Dorp, nods to the PASEO’s Digital influence with his Larry Bell-esque imagery – no big surprise – the famed artist is his father-in-law – and brings Fall Arts firmly into the present. Gone are the hollyhocks and chile ristra illustrative works of the recent past which brought to mind the Rollings Stones classic “you’re out of time my baby, baby baby baby you’re out of time…” Now thankfully these nostalgic motifs are mostly seen only on the roadsides and in gardens where they belong.

When the Taos Fall Arts Festival began in 1974 it was  staged at the homes of patrons who wished to promote local art. As it grew in popularity, TFAF expanded into larger venues, Invitational and Juried Exhibits and has developed into an Open Exhibition for over 250 Taos County artists. 

Yet, despite the changes to that have occurred over the decades, TFAF’s mission has remained constant: celebrate the visual arts and artists in Taos County, encourage the growth of emerging artists, and continue an event where artists can come together to both exhibit and market their works, (continuing in the tradition of the early TSA, who were a co-opperative organization as well; interested in both the creation and the Business of Art.)

The inclusion of new partnerships including the PASEO  contribute new energy and excitement to the Taos Fall Arts events, appealing as they do to a much broader audience.

Also in September, the Couse Foundation invites Taoseños and visitors to a Sept. 7 “hard hat” tour of the under-construction Lunder Research Center at the Couse-Sharp Historic Site, where you’ll be able to get a glimpse into both the past and future of the Arts in Taos.

The center will be housed in the soon-to-be renovated Mission Gallery building on Kit Carson Road, which incorporates the remnants of artist J. H. Sharp’s home.  

“We’ve completed the interior demolition phase of the project, and we know many people are curious about what will happen inside this storied old building,” says  Davison Packard Koenig, executive director and curator. “You can now see the adobe walls of Sharp’s home and even the roof of his portal, now embedded in the ceiling.”

Floor plans and the new purposes of the various rooms will be posted, and the future collections room will host a mini-exhibition of paintings by members of the Taos Society of Artists (TSA). A “show and tell” by the Foundation’s archivist will display materials and objects representative of those being collected for the research center.

The walk-through tour will be on Saturday, Sept. 7, 3-5 p.m. At the same time visitors can attend an interpreted open house of the entire historic site and the exhibitions Taos Pueblo Portraiture: The Photographic Studies of E. I. Couse and Joseph Henry Sharp’s Montana. They can also obtain the recently released monumental biography Eanger Irving Couse: The Life and Times of an American Artist, 1866-1936 and have it signed by the author, his granddaughter, Taos-based art historian Virginia Couse Leavitt.

The Lunder Research Center for the Taos Society of Artists will be the repository for documents and art created, and artifacts collected, by the 12 members of the Taos Society of Artists. Please see their site below for details.

With its blend of cultural diversity and stunning geographical beauty, Taos has inspired artists for over a century and has risen to prominence as a world-class art destination.  Each autumn, both locals and visitors alike converge on our little town to celebrate the one thing that sets us apart : Art.

The 2019 festival will take place September 20 through September 29, 2019. For more information on all the above, visit the sites linked below.

taosfallarts

taoshistoricmuseums

taosartisttours

paseo

couse-sharp

And for all the info you need about Taos, year round, please visit Taos.org linked below,

taos.org

 

 

Editors Note: PASEO co- founder,  Agnes Chaves  reminded me that (re/ the featured image), two middle schoolers from Taos Charter – Ryan Cox and Jasmin Stoner, led by workshop artist, Markus Dorninger, did that projection on the church.

“They painted that with their fingers!” Agnes said.

 

 

 

All images thanks to the above: Couse-Sharp, Taos Fall Arts (image of 2019 poster art by Sasha Raphael vom Dorp), Paseo and TAO.

Image of Taos, stock files.

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Bent Street Pt 2

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Clearly Bent Street is steeped in history.

And although originally one of the earliest  residential streets in town, trade and commerce have been a mainstay on Bent Street since the 18th century.

The valley of Taos has been home to the Tiwa-speaking Taos Indians since around 900 A.D., and in 1540 Taos was first discovered by Spanish Conquistadors during the Coronado expedition. In 1598 the Franciscan friar Fray Francisco de Zamora was assigned to the provinces of Picuris and Taos, with the intention of converting the Indians. But Fray Francisco left the colony three years later discouraged with his lack of success.

Relations between the Spaniards and the Taos people were stormy from the start, and there is no record of a mission church being successfully established at Taos until 1626 when Fray Tomás Carrasco is credited with having built “a good church of fine architecture,” dedicated to San Gerónimo de Taos. It lasted less than fifteen years; in 1640, the Taos people rebelled, killed the resident friar and several Spanish soldiers, and burned the church. 

In the 1650s,  Taos Pueblo allegedly and unsuccessfully attempted to instigate a revolt among the other Pueblos, and then in about 1660 they again burned their newly re-built church, having been virtually independent of Spanish influence for twenty years. 

Taos Pueblo was deeply involved in the Pueblo Rebellion of 1680 which began with a vision  the San Juan rebel leader, Popay had in a kiva at Taos Pueblo. They actively resisted the re-establishment of Spanish rule in the 1690s, not succumbing until 1696. 

The 1770s saw a complete hiatus in the Hispanic settlement of the Taos valley and during this period the authorities in Santa Fe and in Mexico repeatedly expressed their displeasure with the dispersed pattern of settlement so popular throughout northern New Mexico,  frowned upon because of its vulnerability to attack (as demonstrated by the situation in Taos) and because it allowed the colonists too much freedom from the supervision of the authorities. (See my post on the Crypto Jews of New Mexico.)

In 1772 Governor Pedro Fermín de Mendinueta strongly restated the government policy requiring that the settlers form defensive enclosed plazas as the centers of their communities, along the lines of the Indian Pueblos.

In 1779, the dispersed settlers took up residence away from the Pueblo. A large enclosed plaza was built on the Rio de las Trampas; it was, because of its sufficiency of water and fertile lands, the first community in the valley to be resettled after the hiatus of the 1770s. It was this plaza which became the center of the present town of Ranchos de Taos.

By the early eighteenth century Taos Pueblo had apparently resigned themselves to Spanish rule, and cooperated with the Hispanos in mutual defense from the attacks by nomadic Indians, particularly the Comanches and the Utes. 

The French and Spaniards regularly reported the presence of a group known as the Padouca at the northeastern edge of New Mexico, often in the vicinity of the headwaters of the Arkansas River, not far from Taos.

Comanches apparently began to visit northern New Mexico during the late seventeenth century, mostly in the company of the Ute, whose long history of occupation northwest of Taos would have given them both an intimate knowledge of the landscape and established access to Pueblo trade networks.

It appears that the greater Taos area was clearly a key locus of “branding” for the Comanches at the start of the eighteenth century. The tribe’s early Horse herds were primarily obtained from this region. In fact, local Hispano oral traditions tell stories about how the initial Comanche herds were built up through raids on those early settlements in what is now Ranchos de Taos.

The tribe’s historic identity is inseparable from an equestrian lifestyle, and Taos was where the Comanches truly became “Comanches.”

Everyone who’s lived here long enough knows about Taos’ secret underground; a network of tunnels running underneath the Historic District. The majority of the buildings in the Historic District were built during the 1880s and the tunnels probably date from around the same time. One of the most prevalent theories is that they were used as shelters, to protect Taos residents from the Comanche raids.

The tunnels are particularly accessible from the shops that now line Dona Luz, on Guadalupe Plaza. The town of Taos known as Fernández de Taos was established in the late 1700s, but the license to build its church dedicated to Our Lady of Guadalupe was not granted until 1801. It gradually became the largest settlement in the Taos valley, because of its close proximity to the Pueblo. 

With the establishment of the Mexican Republic in 1821, trade restrictions with the United States were relaxed and the Santa Fe Trail was opened to traders and trappers from the east. Taos soon became the center for the fur trade for the Southwest and Rocky Mountains, attracting many Anglo-American and French trappers and traders.

Pueblo unrest continued culminating in the murder of Governor Bent (at his home on Bent Street), in January of 1847.

The noted scout and guide Christopher (Kit) Carson who began his career as a trapper first came to Taos a year earlier, in 1826, eventually settling here and marrying Taoseña, Josefa Jaramillo. Charles Bent had married Josefa’s sister, Maria Ignacia Jaramillo in 1835. 

The Remarkable Women Of Taos site (linked on my sidebar), has much more info about the two women and the men they married.

Taos Pueblo had long been a central point of trade between the Native populations along the Rio Grande River and their neighbors to the northwest, the Plains Tribes. The Pueblo hosted a trade fair each fall after the harvest, (San Geronimo Feast Day is an outgrowth of that), had impressed those early Spaniards who made contact with the ancient village. Eventually, trade routes would link Taos to the northernmost towns of New Spain and the cities of Mexico via the Camino Real.

Bent Street, then as now was a center for business and trade and today we continue our stroll along this picturesque street, steeped in history and lore.

Just next door to La Chiripada Winery’s in town location, is Best of Taos winner, FX18, a go-to destination for locals and visitors; it’s a gift givers paradise!

An eclectic melange featuring unique, contemporary jewelry, quirky and humorous books and cards, apparel and accessories made by independent artisans, fun socks and hosiery, vintage and re-sale clothing and shoes, children’s and baby clothes. 

Housewares, kitchen ware, bar ware, bags and totes, wallets and handmade jewelry can be found here as well, along with journals so you can chronicle your travels through Taos! No stone has been left unturned by Libby.

“We feature one of a kind gifts for all ages that will put a smile on your face,” she says, smiling.

See FX18’s site linked below this post.

At Dwellings Revisited, owner Cam Martin has collected an array of gifts and home wares that will keep you browsing for hours! Take your time; there are hidden treasures in all the nooks and crannies of these ancient walls. 

Cam specializes in Folk Art from around the world,focusing on primitives and oddities which brings a magical touch to one’s shopping experience in this truly incredible shop that leaves one feeling as if one has fallen down a rabbit hole into a surreal Cabinet of Curiosities!

Don’t miss it when you visit Taos, and don’t forget about it, if you live here and need a truly unique gift. Large or small, here is where you’ll find it.

Dwellings do not have an online presence but they are located at 107 Bent Street and can be reached by phone at 575 758-3377. Please leave a message and your call will be returned ASAP.

The Underground (cleverly references both the aforementioned tunnels and the Counter Culture that once thrived in Taos), owned and run by British ex-pat Stuart Brown, is located in the building that once housed 101/2 the men’s shop owned by Sam Parks’ partner, Linda Hill, where I worked during my pregnancy with my daughter Genevieve back in 1981.

Once a residence to the same family that owned the space Sam’s Shop (next door), occupies, The Underground continues the men’s shop tradition albeit with a hipster twist.

Bringing a bit of Blighty to Taos, Stuart’s enclave specializes in a combination of iconic U.K. Brands (Doc Martins anyone?), Superdry and a limited production of bespoke clothing from Kardo.

From California, Stuart has sourced Kensington shirts and items from Rock And Soul. Fabulous T-shirts and unique accessories along with small gifts, make shopping for (and by), the man in your life, a breeze.

The Underground is my usual destination for gifts for my son and sons-in-law. 

Although Stuart doesn’t know who the original owners of his little corner on Bent Street were, he’s quite happy to be the current occupant and has no intention of going anywhere anytime soon.

For more on The Underground, please check out his site linked below. 

I’ll be back next Wednesday with more of the merchants and businesses that make Bent Street so unique.

Please visit Taos.org for more on Bent Street and beyond!

taos.org

fx18.com

theundergroundtaos

 

 

Featured photo thanks to Libby at FX18!

Photos of Stuart at The Underground and Dwellings Revisited taken on my iphone. All others stock files.

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Resist Mediocrity, Demand The Truth

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“You don’t become someone who is agitating, advocating and outspoken and get hit by a car! He paid attention to what was going on and had opinions.” Anonymous.

A couple of weeks ago, Taos Vortex – a collaborative effort between the Town of Taos and Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, arrived in Kit Carson Park with an entourage of paying guests and happy campers who tripped in and trashed the park, so garbage was still visible a week later, blown by monsoon winds into hidden corners and underneath the trees lining the fences.

US Bank’s Plaza branch had their atm and computer system blown out by the power outage caused by the “festival” and the World Cup Cafe’s espresso machine stopped working.

The Bank and the World Cup Cafe were put out of business by a weekend’s worth of concerts!

The Friends of Kit Carson Park must be elated. Now they have a real platform. 

“Some old timers think Satanic energy was unleashed at that event,” a friend remarked. “They were shocked by the behaviour of some of the attendees,” she explained, referencing the nudity on display. 

It’s easy to forget that we still live in a predominantly Catholic community and a Mestizo version to boot! Where ritual and myth have collided like Manifest Destiny in the Western Hemisphere, in these Americas. Whether one aligns oneself with that concept or not, one thing is clear, the Bank and the ‘Cup should be compensated by the Town of Taos and Meow Wolf. And please keep the Vortex out of our park in future. Maybe Taos Mesa Brewing’s Mothership is a better venue? I was writing about this yesterday when a friend came by.

She couldn’t stay long because she was on a mission. To find Patrick Larkin. Patrick was the enigmatic, well-read (and informed), dry and dour proprietor of the World Cup Cafe. He also loved the outdoors and the mountains – he was a great skier – and stood on the right side of history in his progressive politics and pragmatic point of view.

His business (which he began with his then partner, Molly Hayfield, as Black Diamond Coffee in Taos Ski Valley), in a cart on Bent Street, before occupying its current, corner spot on the Plaza, remains the true visitor’s center in Taos. Everyone who comes here passes through the World Cup Cafe. Here important contacts are made and deals are done. 

About 10 years ago, Patrick met his current partner and wife, Andrea Mayer (formerly both the executive chef at the Love Apple and the Manager of Taos Farmers Market.) Andrea moved here from the Northwest and together they have a beautiful 6 year old daughter, Oona. Andrea’s literary background proved the perfect match for Patrick’s curious and considerable intellect, and many of us watched his dour facade give way to more smiles in the past few years.

When I got there, the cafe was filled with flowers and mourners. On the counter, with the flowers (brought by Anais Rumfelt) and a couple of candles, a photograph of Patrick leaned against one of the vases: “Our fearless leader”, written on it. He was gone.

Of course we’ll be fed a tale or two. Concocted to appease those in the know.  But one thing is clear; foul play is front and center in this mystery.  What I know is hearsay; second-hand, at that, gleaned from overheard snippets of conversation and information delivered by well-meaning friends.

On Tuesday morning during the wee hours, the bleating of one of his goats, drew Patrick outside to investigate the animal’s discomfort (one friend speculates it was a ruse – goat was tortured precisely to lure him into a trap.)

Reported missing that afternoon by his wife, Andrea, flyers were posted around town and yesterday morning, a friend called for a search by local citizens, along the ditches in Patrick’s ‘hood, north of town.

Rumours were rife; a mountain lion on the loose, a disgruntled squatter on his land, a contentious neighbor on meth, bullet shots in the dark… the list grew as the sun rose higher in the sky.

The goat was found dead in its pen. Head caught in a fence. Around noon, Patrick’s  body was found a mile or so away, in a ditch. I’ve been told it was in bad shape, as if dragged, possibly by a car. Someone heard the police are saying it was a hit and run. None of us should settle for that pat response. Patrick and his family deserve so much more. 

It’s a sad day in Taos. An iconic figure gone- the man who brought not only great (world-class), coffee to our little town, but also, and more importantly, coffee/cafe culture. Authentic, Bohemian and provocative; the International currency and political (Left) signage that papered the walls, let people know immediately that this was a safe place to gather and share thoughts, ideas and opinions. And as tiny as it is, they did and do. On the stools inside, on the benches outside, and often, standing room only as a line snakes out the door and into the street.

“Resist Mediocrity” the World Cup’s motto, asks that we resist easy answers at this time. Patrick and the life he lived, were not mediocre, nor should his death be treated as such. In a sense, Patrick Larkin went down like a classic Western hero, which in actuality he was and will be remembered as one – iconic and iconoclastic – a man who epitomized In many ways, the Modern (Wild) West – Frontier spirit still intact – independent, resourceful and committed to excellence and community.

My daughter Genevieve worked for Patrick (and Molly), at the World Cup for a decade. Her standards in her own businesses are set high because of what she learned from him. Her heart is broken. She was one of those holding vigil at the ‘Cup when I arrived yesterday, together with Anais, Suki Dalury and others come to pay their respects, along with Renata who kept the coffee coming.  My other daughter Angelica and I talked last evening; she remembered that last Wednesday after the Vortex blowout, when Patrick got his machine up and running, he was the one making our coffee when we went in. ” He made our last coffee,” she noted sadly. “And it was so good.” She also expressed regret that she’d not spoken to him. I reminded her that the cafe was slammed and he was not in a talkative mood. 

As I walked to my car after leaving the cafe, I ran into my old friend, Ziad Khweis, the owner of Pueblo Collections on the Plaza. Ziad was born on the Mount of Olives, he’s Palestinian and has had some issues in the past  with Immigration. He told me how Patrick had helped him with petitions and signatures and more. Raising both money and awareness that enabled him to stay here, in Taos with his family.

“He was a good man.” Ziad recalled. “A decent, kind man.”
He was, and may his ending be honored with the truth, and may it serve as a reminder that we live in a very troubled and unsafe world, and although it might look like paradise outside our doors, the violence, corruption and spiritual bankruptcy of the greater society, fast encroaches, and in some respects, reemerges from dark, hidden places, where secrets are kept, and dysfunction is nurtured.

“There’s a crack in everything,” the poet wrote, “that’s how the light gets in.”

May Patrick Larkin’s life and death shine a light on the things that remain unresolved and swept under rugs ad infinitum.

And may his memory be blessed.

 

All photographs by Bill Curry (except for top image of Patrick and Oona, lifted from Facebook and likely taken by Zoe Zimmerman.)

curryimages

 

The post Resist Mediocrity, Demand The Truth appeared first on taoStyle.

Everybody Must Get Stoned

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If you live in Taos, you are probably still reeling.

The tragic loss of World Cup Cafe owner, Patrick Larkin has devastated the entire community. If however, you happen to be a card carrying NM Medical Marijuana patient, a little relief is not difficult to come by. 

When Southwest Wellness opened their first dispensary (in Taos, adjacent to the state of the art greenhouses designed by architect Doug Patterson) to house what was and still is, the largest medical marijuana grow in the state, the town was a’buzz with speculation and rumour.

Now two years later, it’s evident that the operation has not only been great for medical cannabis patients in Taos, with efficient service in a pristine environment, along with professional medical assistance on the premises to obtain a card if you don’t yet have one, but for the state’s burgeoning marijuana economy as well. The company provides jobs for many locals along with much needed medicine for qualified patients statewide.

The marijuana grown in the aforementioned greenhouses is held to the highest standards and no toxic chemicals are used to fertilize the plants; Southwest Wellness still operates the largest state of the art, light deprivation, temperature controlled greenhouse grow in the state of New Mexico.

Barbara Crawford, the Managing Member for the organization is very chic, very savvy and very articulate; Barbara’s pragmatic approach to business has grown the company by leaps and bounds in the past two years with a second location in Albuquerque bookending Northern New Mexico, and this week when I popped in to see Will Hooper, SWW’s Social Media Director, I was pleasantly surprised to find Barbara there as well.

When we first met in August of 2017, Barbara took me on a tour of the greenhouses and explained that they had 38,000 sq ft of (controlled light deprivation), greenhouses, and were permitted to grow 450 plants. When we talked on Tuesday, she told me that she was there to oversee the “killing of almost 700 baby plants.”

After ruling that a larger number of plants were permitted per “Grow”, another New Mexico law went into effect Tuesday that limits the state’s 35 medical marijuana providers to only 1,750 mature plants. The legislation, which replaces previous guidelines that allowed for 2,500 plants per provider, was adopted by state Health Secretary Kathy Kunkel, 

As this law goes into effect, the number of patients enrolled in the program could also change significantly based on the outcome of a recent lawsuit. A judge has ruled that New Mexico’s medical marijuana program is open to people from outside the state who qualify based on a medical condition.

Reforms this year to the state’s medical cannabis statutes deleted the in-state residency requirement for prospective marijuana patients. The office of Gov. Michelle Lujan Grisham says that change was unintended and plans to appeal, but for now, if you are a card carrying patient from another state, you can apply for a New Mexico medical marijuana card as well.

This Labor Day Weekend, Southwest Wellness is opening two new locations in Albuquerque (addresses are listed below this post), while in Taos, the friendly budtenders are getting ready for a blowout weekend with the Sting concert in Kit Carson Park sure to bring visitors from all over the state and beyond.

If you are planning to attend the show, you’ll be happy to know that they will have a special on easy-to-carry candy (all varieties), this weekend, with 15% off! Several new and (old favorites), flowers and other products are also available for the best value around.

Southwest Wellness will not be open on Monday as they are focusing on opening up the two new locations in ABQ, with soft openings this weekend at both stores (on 98th, and the second on San Pedro).

The company’s expansion positions Southwest Wellness perfectly regarding the ongoing changes we are seeing being made almost weekly to the medical cannabis laws in New Mexico.

Southwest Wellness in Taos is located at 1023 Salazar Rd. 

In Albuquerque, the 9132 Montgomery Blvd location will now be joined by two more: 2325 San Pedro Dr NE and 101 98th St SW.

For much more information on Southwest Wellness and all the services they provide, please see their site linked below.

southwestwellness

 

*Rainy Day Women #12 & 35 lyric: Songwriter: Bob Dylan

Copyright © 1966 by Dwarf Music; renewed 1994 by Dwarf Music

 

 

All images c/o SWW and/or stock files

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Local Flavor’s September Issue

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Raises a toast to the passion behind Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta!

But beginning next month, with their October Issue, after 22 years, with the same (print), format, Local Flavor Magazine, Northern New Mexico’s premier culinary and cultural arts magazine, is excited to announce it’s undergoing a transformation, with a new size and 30 percent heavier paper stock.

“Our advertisers and our readers are going to love the new convenient keeper size (at 10.375 x 11 inches), the more urbane graphic design, and the bright colors due to the richer paper stock,” says Patty Karlovitz, the magazine’s editor and co-publisher with her husband Peter.

“We’ve worked incredibly hard to remain vital to the regional businesses that depend on our publication for promotion, and to our readers who value independent thinking, great writing, and gorgeous photography.” Says Patty. “Local Flavor Magazine has always been fiercely independent and as unique as the passionate people it covers. We’re honored to continue to hold that space with in-depth stories rendered in beautiful writing and evocative photography for another generation.” 

The print copy of Local Flavor will continue to be distributed at 550 locations across Santa Fe, Taos, Los Alamos and Albuquerque where you’ll find the September Issue on the stands now!

REVELRY ON THE ROOFTOP.

90-plus Chefs and culinary VIPS revel in the electrifying weather to stage the biggest photo shoot of the year!

VOLCANIC ISLAND TERROIR. An oenophile’s dream tour of Sicily, Corsica, Tenerife, Sardinia, and Santorini. And written by not just any oenophile, but the executive director of Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, Greg O’Bryne.

TABLAS CREEK. Writer and oenophile James Selby takes a fond look at the 2019 Wine & Chile Fiesta Honorary Winery of the Year, of which the late owner Robert Hass said, “If you’re not farming well, you’re not making good wines.”

A NIGHT FOR THE SENSES. Intrepid sommelier Mark C. Johnson is an amusing, insightful guide to a dozen hand-selected Wine & Chile Fiesta wine dinners.

FROM THE GRAPEVINE. Wine aficionado Philip de Give is your guide to the wines with which you ought to reconnoiter at Wine & Chile seminars, dinners, luncheons, and the Grand Tasting.

RAMONA SAKIESTEWA. This renowned Native artist, whose painting Blue Raven A has been chosen for the Wine & Chile Fiesta poster says, “I used to worry about ‘staying in my lane’ because most artists work in a single discipline, but I like trying everything.”

BIG BUZZ. Writer Lynn Cline delivers her annual round-up of foodie highlights, with special attention to beloved Santa Fe Chefs.

WHAT FEEDS THEIR PASSION. A retrospective celebrating the stories of a dozen Chefs on the topic of their work, 

LA EMI. Flamenco artist La Emi says, “My whole life is flamenco. I have absolutely devoted my time to it. It is the only thing for me, always.”

UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF CHACO.Revisit the hotel whose architecture and design is informed by the grace, the ingenuity, and the importance of Chaco Culture National Historical Park.

TOP TIX. What would we do without Top Tix columnist Stephanie Hainsfurther’s tips on the hottest performing arts tix in town, including headliner Lucibela at ¡Globalquerque!

ON THE ROAD. Author of Exploring New Mexico, Sharon Niederman is back this month with more road trip recommendations for your summer adventures, including a visit to Pie Town on the day of the Pie Town Pie Festival, Sept. 14–grand prize is $100.

For much more of Local Flavor Magazine, please visit their site linked below and do pick up a copy here in Taos at Cid’s!

LocalFlavorMagazine

 

All photographs thanks to Local Flavor Magazine

 

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Walk Softly At Shree

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Today Sting plays in Kit Carson Park

While Taos remains in a state of shock.

Many of us are still trying to make sense of a senseless situation. People are on edge, bursting into tears in the most unlikely places, falling into one another’s arms for solace and hugs.

It’s been a devastating weekend but this community has rallied and come together to give so much love and support to the dear family and friends Patrick leaves behind. Two people shattered by his loss are the co-founders and owners of Shree Yoga Taos.

My daughter Genevieve Oswald and Suki Dalury met and became friends when they worked together at the World Cup Cafe. Suki who had grown up with yoga (her mother is a Yoga Teacher), encouraged Genevieve to begin a practice. The rest is history.

In their own business they have emulated Patrick’s high standards and dedication to community; his mentorship is evident, as is his loss. They are grieving, and as they mourn, they wisely return to their mats, day after day, knowing the benefits of their practices go way beneath the surface of their skin.

Yoga is a mind-body practice that combines physical poses, controlled breathing, and meditation. Yoga may help reduce stress, lower blood pressure and lower your heart rate. And almost anyone can do it. Considered one of many types of complementary and integrative health modalities, Yoga brings together physical and mental disciplines that may help you achieve peace  of body and mind. This can help you relax and manage stress and anxiety.

Yoga poses or asanas, are a series of movements designed to increase strength and flexibility. Poses range from lying on the floor while completely relaxed to difficult postures that may have you stretching your physical limits. Controlling the breath is an important part of yoga. Yoga teaches that controlling your breathing can help you control your body and quiet your mind. In yoga, you may also incorporate meditation which can help you to be more mindful and aware of the present moment without judgment.

A number of studies have shown that yoga may help reduce stress and anxiety. It can also enhance your mood and overall sense of well-being. Practicing yoga may also lead to improved balance, flexibility, range of motion and strength and finally Yoga can help reduce risk factors for chronic diseases, such as heart disease and high blood pressure. Yoga might also help alleviate chronic conditions, such as depression, pain, anxiety and insomnia.

Yoga is generally considered safe for most healthy people when practiced under the guidance of a trained instructor. But there are some situations in which yoga might not be the right choice for you. See your health care provider before you begin yoga if you have any concerns. Every person has a different body with different abilities. You may need to modify yoga postures based on your personal abilities. Your instructor may be able to suggest modified poses. Choosing an instructor who is experienced and who understands your needs is important to safely and effectively practice yoga.

Regardless of which type of yoga you practice, you don’t have to do every pose. If a pose is uncomfortable or you can’t hold it as long as the instructor requests, don’t do it. Good teachers will understand and encourage you to explore — but not exceed — your personal limits.

As our community grieves, Sting’s performance here, at summer’s end, and his own penchant for yoga which certainly informs his midlife creative output – is like healing balm for our Collective Soul, and Shree Yoga is quietly offering a few special workshops that might be helpful once the music is over!

In fact, there are lots of little workshops and events ongoing at Shree, as well as their  normal schedule.  

The Walk Softly series kicks off with Marc Holzman this month.  This is a great opportunity to work with a great internationally known teacher and deepen your extant practice or just to drop in if you are curious about beginning one.

I asked Genevieve a few questions about the workshop just days before Patrick Larkin’s passing,  and here is her response.

1) What made you decide to do these workshops at Shree?

Walk Softly is an invitation into the depth of yoga practice without the culture of yoga fanaticism. At a time when yoga is misconstrued as only for a certain type of person of a certain age wearing certain pants in a certain environment with certain music, this project is an opportunity to bring into the fold those that don’t fit or don’t want to fit into a certain mold. To Walk Softly is to be aware of where you place your feet and why; to move from a place connected to something bigger than yourself and all that came before and to move toward a place with the greater good in mind. The practice of yoga is a full spectrum journey which integrates all aspects of the multifaceted qualities of being, shaping and polishing the gem of the raw sharp and jagged ed fragments  of happenstance and circumstance (body, mind, spirit) into a life enhancing whole. Yoga, not just the image of today’s practice but rather the ancient whole practice of Yoga teaches one how to Walk Softly in a raw and ever-changing world. The Walk Softly Practice Project is dedicated to connecting practitioners to masterful teachers; we are committed to providing an experience that is integrating and not bound to ideas of absolutes; we are passionate about building strong community and sharing from the heart. 

2) Can you tell my readers a little about the Walk Softly workshops/events you’ve introduced at Shree, particularly the one in September with Marc Holzman?

Marc Holzman is literally my favorite teacher on planet Earth today and as the embodiment of what Walk Softly aims to serve. So, inviting him to come to Taos as the inaugural teacher for this series was a no brainer. Mark comes to us from Paris where he currently lives. I found him on the internet… where we find everything these days… he is a regular contributor on Yoga Glo (an online platform of yoga classes based in LA) and I have been studying with him there for nearly eight years. Mark is a remarkable yoga teacher, weaving precise alignment into brilliantly sequenced classes with a philosophical premise and interwoven teachings of Ayurveda, the sister science to yoga. Truly masterful, we are so lucky to have him here!

3) Fall is on our doorstep; do you have any helpful tips for our practice as we head into the colder season? 

Well, this is what Mark is going to teach on and my tip is to sign up for the weekend.

 

Breathe. And bring your heart.

For more on Shree Yoga Taos, the Walk Softy Workshop with Marc Holzman and everything they offer, please visit their site linked below. Marc Holzman’s site is linked also.

shreeyogataos.com

marcholzman

 

Photograph of Suki and Genevieve by Derek Hart

Other photographs thanks to Shree Yoga Taos and Bill Curry

curryimages

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The Beat Goes On, On Bent Street

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Today I arrive full circle, aqui en Taos.

Which, in light of recent events including the tragic demise of World Cup Cafe’s Patrick Larkin, seems apropos, if eerily so.

I first came to Taos in 1980 as a visitor with my not yet husband Sonny Boy Robinson, our baby girl, Angelica and my three year old son, Joshua. We had met a year or so earlier at the Mudd Club in Downtown Manhattan – I worked there, if one could call dreaming up and organizing parties work – Sonny Boy played in a band (by chance, the guitar player Danny Oppenheimer’s mother, Rena Rosequist, owned the Mission Gallery), who played there and at CBGB’s and other infamous joints below 14th St.

SB had spent time in Taos before moving to the City. He’d come here via Austin where he’d moved to from Minnesota. Taos was mythical in his mind; larger than life and he’d hint cryptically at its place in the pantheon of rare and magical realms. I took it with a grain of salt as he continued to introduce me to Taos residents past and present, including Larry Bell.

Then one day in early summer  he surprised me with tickets to Taos and California. We were going on holiday!

We stayed right on the Plaza at the old La Fonda where the late, great Saki Karavas held court. Before I set foot outside that door, I was given a crash course in Taos history and lore. Then we walked across the square, along the old wooden boardwalk covered in brambles that Polly Raye later cleared away – through what are now the John Dunn Shops, to Bent Street. 

SB wanted to introduce me to Light and Merle and all the other girls who worked for Sam Parks at her eponymously named, Sam’s Shop.

I was a Rock chick, not a Fashion person, although in ways the two industries do connect – but I found a core of kindred spirits at Sam’s as well as a couple of authentic Breton tops which I wore to pieces.

I met others here in Taos on that week long trip who remain friends, it was a brief foray into my future, but when we left for California, Taos was already in my rearview mirror.

A year later we returned to spend my pregnancy with our second daughter, Genevieve, in Taos. We figured we’d spend a year or two here, sublet our apartment on St. Mark’s Place, and packed the bare necessities before taking the train to Lamy. Joshua had gone to live with his father, so it was only SB, Angelica and myself crossing the Continental Divide that time.

I’ve chronicled that period here, in a post I did on the Harwood, so I won’t be redundant, but once we arrived in Taos, where we stayed at first with Merle Kout and her husband at the time, writer Tom Collins (the co-founder of Geronimo with Bill Whaley), I went back to Sam’s Shop and asked Sam for a job.

I spent the first half of my pregnancy working at Sam’s until mid-summer when the girls (Light, Merle, Karen, Linda and Sam all decided I should be moved next door to 101/2 the men’s shop Linda Hill (Sam’s business partner), owned.

And so I did. And there I was comfortably ensconced in the small, bright space with a desk and chair where I could sit during slow times with feet up, and I did!

Those women remain very dear to my heart – Light is no longer with us and Merle lives in Chicago, but both left indelible stamps on the Taos map. Karen lives in Taos still, and we run into one another from time to time.

That summer I spent a lot of time at her (and her former husband Vishu McGee) home which then housed the marble Hanuman statue brought here by followers of Neem Karoli Baba (hilariously documented by John Nichols in his Taos novel,  Nirvana Blues.) The statue was kept in a shed on the property upon which now sits a grand, brand new temple. The monkey god’s accommodations went from spartan to 5 star in just a few decades!

Sam was married to Steve Parks who also had his place of operations on Bent St. Artlines, the magazine he co-founded with Nancy Pantaleoni (who would go on to start a business with Janet Webb before she went solo with Webb Design), was a few doors down. Bent was a hub then as it remains now; the beating heart of Downtown Taos.

I returned to NYC and traveled back and forth before moving back to Taos in 1991. I worked at the Buffalo Dancer on Taos Plaza for Duane Hopper (Dennis’ cousin), for several years.One day someone came in carrying a to-go cup of coffee that smelled unlike anything I’d smelled since leaving the city.

“Where did you get that?” I asked.

“In a cart, on Bent Street.”

When my kids arrived at the gallery after school, I sent them over to pick up a latte for me.

Patrick and Molly soon opened another cart in Taos Ski Valley before moving into the old tobacco shop on the corner of the Plaza, where the World Cup Cafe still stands, across the street from where Buffalo Dancer used to be.

Over the years I worked on Bent Street a few more times! For Toni Leigh at Desert Blends of Taos (where Chocolate & Cashmere is located), next door on occasion for Loretta Chuzum at the long gone Wild Life, and finally, at Stacey Huddleston’s Human Line Studio, coincidently next door to Steve Parks’ second to last, gallery location.

During the  Dennis Hopper at the Harwood Opening and events held around town, Steve had a show featuring all the artists and artisans who made work in Taos during Hopper’s heyday at the Big House. Artifacts that were featured at the time on the Bi-Centennial Train that traveled the country,( including a concho belt by  Pepe Rochon and a beadwork by Janice “Light” Harrison),  were included in the exhibit at the Parks Gallery.

I was watering the garden outside the gallery, when Dennis strolled over to say hi,  and asked if he could sit on our wall, away from the crowd next door and smoke his cigar. His brother David was with him, and his son, Henry. Lisa Law tagged along. He was already ill with the cancer that would take him not long after, but that day he regaled us with stories about Taos back when he’d first arrived. He told us about one time he was arrested on the Plaza for shooting at a tree (he thought it was a bear), and going to jail tripping on acid!

“It was still the Wild West back then,” he joked.

Well in light of recent events (including a random violent incident on Bent St itself), it may still be, even though the old men from Taos Pueblo no longer line the Plaza benches, wrapped in their blue blankets while Mountain Men come down into the valley to trade.

The hitching posts on the Plaza and Bent Street might be gone, but the ghosts of the past remain in the stories and legends passed down from one generation to the next.

Kathleen Fowler bought Sam’s Shop from Sam and by the time I moved back to Taos, she’d made it fully her own. It’s still my go-to for anything I need in a hurry for any occasion. I always check the sale rack and the rack of second hand treasures as well as the new merchandise Kathleen discovers at “Market”  each season.

The building has been “a women’s clothing boutique since 1946,” says Kathleen. So even before it belonged to Sam Parks, women in Taos were shopping on Bent Street for fashionable fineries!

One of the newer buildings on Bent Street, built during the 30’s,  the  house has beams from Turley Mill and Kathleen says the daughters of the original tenants have visited to see their old bedrooms upstairs.

The small rooms downstairs in the adobe house are filled with a selection of women’s clothing and accessories that reflect Kathleen’s aesthetic;  feminine, classic with a quirky whimsical twist.

Sam’s Shop is located at 109 Bent St.

Across the way from Sam’s, heading down Bent Street, is Taos Cookery.

A kitchen shop owned by Cobey Sensescu and managed by Mel A. James, this charming space is chocablock filled to the brim with locally made pottery, linens,

Taos Twist flatware, gadgets, pots and pans, specialty food products, Kei & Molly kitchen towels, as well as bookshelves packed with amazing Southwest cookbooks! There is so much to see here, it’s always amazed me just how much stuff they have been able to fit into these tiny rooms without it seeming in the least bit cluttered! This is a goldmine for cooks or to find a great gift for the cook in your life!

See their site linked below for much more info.

Next door at Ortenstone Delattre Fine Art, Nancy Ortenstone and Pierre Delattre have curated a collection of contemporary art.

The gallery features original contemporary paintings on canvas and limited edition museum quality archival prints by Nancy Ortenstone, Pierre Delattre and Carla O’Neal. This is one of the few galleries in Taos that focuses on current, modern and contemporary art. Pierre Delattre is a writer and poet as well as an artist, who for many years wrote for The Magazine in Santa Fe.

The building that houses Ortenstone Delattre Fine Art was originally the stables for Governor Bent’s horses back in the 1840’s!

For more information please visit their site below this post, and please join me again, next Wednesday as we continue to stroll down Bent Street.

sam’sshop

taoscookery

ortenstonedelattre

For more on Bent Street and shopping in Taos, please visit Taos.org linked below.

taos.org

 

All images taken on my iphone except for the corner shops where Desert Blends and Wild Life once were and shot of the street, (stock files), and Kathleen outside Sam’s thanks to Sam’s Shop!

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Palimpsest: Norlynne Coar At Magpie

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Palimpsest.

The process of effacing in order to create something new while what was there before shows through, creating a multi-layered image, and what was there before becomes part of something new. Something having usually diverse layers or aspects apparent beneath the surface.

So read the Press Release sent to me by Georgia Gersh at Magpie, announcing her September show.

The artist who chose this term as the title for her upcoming exhibit is Norlynne Coar.

Norlynne  first came to Taos in 1979 and has been drawn back continuously ever since. A  dynamic artist who works in several mediums, she’s also a key person behind the Taos Fall Arts Festival’s creative evolution.

I visited the gallery yesterday as Georgia put the finishing touches on the newly hung show and I can report that it is absolutely gorgeous; the deftly layered surfaces combined with the deeply saturated, yet highly nuanced palette, are a joy to behold. Individually and collectively. It’s a stunning show.

I had already sent Norlynne (whom I had met briefly at Magpie a month or so ago), and she responded promptly.

“Good questions! Here you go — maybe more than you were expecting!”

1) Could you please tell my readers a little about yourself – when and how you arrived in Taos? 

I first moved to Taos, sight unseen, from Marin County (Northern California)  in 1979 when I thought I’d like to go to Paris. But Taos was first on my list. A “prenatal friend” lived here with her husband, and they were building a house in Arroyo Seco; and Ron Davis, a friend of a friend, who had an art supply store on Kit Carson Road invited me to stay at his place. I stayed there for a while and then moved out to Arroyo Hondo to house sit for anthropologists Curt and Polly Schaasfma (also an artist) who were moving to Santa Fe. That was the most severe winter in 40 years, and I weathered through it in an old adobe with a kiva fireplace, wood burning stove that needed the north door open in order to light, running cold water and an outhouse. I worked in the Taos Ski Valley during the winter and Taos News and the original Taos Magazine for the rest of the year, and showed paintings at the Stables.

That was my first residence in Taos. My second residence was from 1989 to 1996. I’d bought some land off Blueberry Hill Road, and not too long afterwards was commissioned to create a lot of work for the San Francisco and Las Vegas Hilton Hotels after which I started building my house and moved back to Taos. After the S&L debacle of 1990-91, which hit my art dealers hard, Rod Goebel hired me to run his gallery. After he died I continued to show work in Santa Fe but also got a real estate licence and worked with Paul Johnson for a few years. Selling real estate wasn’t really my calling. Accepted to film school, I sold my house and went back to Santa Barbara to study photography and film.

In 1997 I started working in the film industry, and it was great until 2008 when there was yet another recession coupled with a dramatic shift in the technology and art of film-making, which began a change like dominoes falling. I started to reinvigorate my career as an artist. Between 2014 and 2017 I was back and forth between Europe (Italy, France, Spain, Portugal), California and Taos. My third residence in Taos began when I abandoned my storage and moved my studio and other things here to Taos a little more than two years ago.

2) Your work is very abstract, very striking – in the Press Release for this show at Magpie, you mention “palimpsest” a process similar to what’s known as pentimento, only purposeful. Could you talk a little about that?  

I have to thank Georgia for suggesting Palimpsest as the title for my show. A handful of pieces are actually titled Palimpsest, but actually my process is like creating a palimpsest. It involves painting, removing and/or covering up, removing and adding in layer upon layer allowing what was there before to show through. I have to risk destroying what I’ve created in order to create a piece that has the texture, the colors, and what is below to be revealed through to the surface. And while “pentimento” is totally descriptive of the process, “palimpsest” also makes a lot of sense because while my pieces appear abstract, to me they are representational. What interests me is below the surface, and the elements I often use (circles, a grid, ensos, gold slices or bars) are like hieroglyphics: they mean something. My friends know how much I love languages and the ability to communicate fluidly in one or another. In my paintings the forms are imbued with meaning like another language.

For example: a grid is indicative of Indra’s Net or web, which suspends and holds all of creation; it also indicates a measure of universe and space. An enso represents the creative energy of the universe and the ongoing or spontaneous act of creation. The gold circles, edges and bars are essentially a different dimension from that of the regular paint and are points of departure. Black holes surrounded by gold, well those are event horizons, and a black hole, in my mind, is something to explore.

3) What continues to inspire you as an artist living and working in Taos? 

Having grown up where the Pacific hits the sand, there is a connection with the ocean, the horizon and sky is apparent in my work: Diving below the surface, gazing beyond the horizon and up into space; delving into the dark and toward the light is my frame of reference. In Taos, the sky is my ocean and the clouds my waves.

I have been influenced by several environments over the last six or seven years. In Taos I am able digest the input and simplify; it’s like I can go on a journey into the painting, into another world, into another space. In Taos, it’s almost a natural inclination to set the world aside, like we’re living at heaven’s door. And I think of lyrics from this song of Sting’s I Was Brought to My Senses: “I walked out this morning, and it was like a veil had been remove from before my eyes, the first time I saw the work of heaven and the land and the hills have been married to the sky. And all around me, every blade of  single grass is calling out to me that our love will always last. And inside every turning leaf is the pattern of an older tree, the shape of our future, the shape of all our history. And out of the confusion where the river meets the sea, things I’ve never seen, things I’ve never seen. I was brought to my senses, I was blind and now that I can see . . . . .And out of the confusion where the river meets the sea, something new will arise, something better will arise . . . “

Norlynne Coar: Palimpsest,  Magpie’s Fall Arts Show, opens at Georgia Gersh’s gallery at the Overland Ranch Complex with a Reception for the Artist this Saturday, September 7th, from 5-7

Opening next door at the Envision Gallery also on Saturday, is a show featuring the work of Hubertus Q. Winnubst. I’ll have a post up with an interview with the artist, tomorrow!

For more information please visit the sites linked below.

magpietaos

magpie/facebook

norlynnecoar

All images thanks to Magpie and Norlynne Coar

 

 

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16 X 20” At Envision

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Hubertus Q. Winnubst is a Dutch native based in Dallas, Texas.

Winnubst has traveled extensively throughout the American West and Southwest. Drawn by the desert, sky and forest, he has been coming to Taos since the early 80s, and after finding  himself returning again and again, inspired by the expansive landscape, he eventually bought a home and studio in Arroyo Hondo, where he continues to soak up the High Desert vibes that inspire his singular style.

With an Academic background in literature, philosophy, metaphysics, art history, photography and design, he cites his influences as Willem de Kooning and Robert Rauschenberg among others.

The title of this show – 16 x 20” – relates to the size of the canvases the artist is for the most part exhibiting, but Jimmy Murray the Envision Gallery’s owner, says he may include a few larger works that already hang at Envision, including the one at the top of this page.

Winnubst’s layered surfaces and richly hued palette reference the influences he acknowledges, but his unique vision and gesture, makes them totally his own.

This body of work represents Winnubst’s philosophy: “My work is an expression of my visceral response to the moment as it unfolds during the act of creation. For me, image making is the result of an intuitive process that reacts to the stimuli around and within me—my thoughts, fears, joys, and passions. I am informed by the seasons, music, and the world in which I participate. I am an evolving human in an evolving world, and I strive to reveal my reactions to this world on my canvases.”

I had met Hubertus one afternoon last year at the Envision Gallery where he shows in Taos, I was there visiting Jimmy who is an old friend, and learned he was also an accomplished chef and musician besides. A Renaissance man indeed!  And so when I stopped by the gallery again recently, I asked Jimmy to send along a few questions to Hubertus for me. Here are his responses.

1)How did you first discover Taos?

Been going to Taos since the 80’s. I’d come stay here for a few days , then venture further out west – I couldn’t get enough of all the colors and rock formations I’d discover. But I’d always come on back to Taos, well because it felt like the place to be.

The sky,  the people, the colors in the sky, the colors all throughout the town, the colors of the horizon, the desert next to the mountains, the rivers, the gorge, the history of the Pueblo, the art , the attitude of the people, the characters that have lived there and I got to meet ,especially in the 80s, the clouds, every road is different, every one of them within 47 miles for sure and the vibe!

2) Can you tell my readers a little about the work in this show at Envision?

These paintings come at a time where the there’s a lot of darkness in the world today. I’m sure I don’t need to explain myself  – these paintings come from a place of unconscious where there is a great need for healing, peace, love, happiness – and what a better way than through color. A feel good process for myself to project some kind of hope and maybe it’ll put a smile on someone’s face. That’d be cool

3)You are also a musician with  a new CD out called Colorblind – a strange title for an artist who is a colorist! Please tell us about that.

Ahh yes..I moved back to Dallas in 1985 and almost immediately helped start a band (The Potatoes), and we played at the first two South by Southwest events. It lasted 8 years or so, I played bass. So I play a little guitar and was asked to perform a 30 minute or so  set of songs from this cd a friend of mine was putting out – I got my son involved who was 14 at the time and we did it and then after that I was pressured into making a cd. Now mind you I hardly play at all and I thought why? My son was learning guitar at the time so I thought why not get him into a studio situation? Next thing you know we got 22 songs.

The name “Colorblind” came to me because years ago, after studying black and white photography, I decided to study color photography, so  went to see a counselor at the University of Texas after two years at another college, and he said I had to take a color blind test which I failed!  He said I couldn’t study color photography. So what do I do instead? I started painting.

Since our debut we have made two cds. where every song has a different vibe music wise and for some reason the white album came up and we decided to make it colorful but taking it even further by not having any words in the packaging, and with the cds you get a color sticker, a color booklet and a color poster.

16 X 20” Opens tomorrow, Saturday, September 7th, with a Reception for the artist from  5-7pm at the Envision Gallery at Overland Ranch.

Norlynne Coar’s opening will happen at the same time, next door at Magpie, so it’s bound to be a party!

What a great way to celebrate Fall Arts in Taos!

For more information, please visit the site linked below.

Envision

 

 

All images thanks to Jimmy Murray at Envision

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Suzanne Betz At Taos Blue

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Horses have appeared in works of art forever.

The horse appears in the prehistoric cave paintings in Lascaux, which are said to be around 17,000 years old.

Prehistoric hill figures carved in the shape of the horse  include the Uffington White Horse in Oxfordshire in England; a classic example of the curious tradition of horse carvings on hill-sides, which began thousands of years ago and continues into the present time.

Equine images were common in ancient Egyptian and Grecian art, and in later Roman work, with horse-drawn chariots often depicted. The Greeks and the Romans invented and revered the equestrian statue; the best surviving example is the statue of Marcus Aurelius in Rome. The Horses of Saint Mark are the sole surviving example from Classical Antiquity of a monumental statue of the Quadriga. 

The Renaissance period saw a resurgence of the horse in art. Painters of this period who portrayed horses  included Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael,Titian and Albrecht Dürer. In 1482 the Duke of Milan commissioned Leonardo da Vinci to create the largest equestrian statue in the world, a monument to the duke’s father. Sadly, Leonardo’s horse was never completed, (until it was replicated in the late 20th century.)

During the Baroque era the tradition of equine portraiture was firmly established, with artists such as Rubens, van Dyck and Velázquez portraying regal subjects atop their mounts. Equine sporting art also became popular during  this era in Britain, when the tradition of horse racing emerged under Tudor patronage. 

The horse appears less frequently in modern art (aside from Helen Frankenthaler’s works), probably because it is no longer a significant mode of transport nor is it a useful implement of war. Most modern representations are either of famous contemporary race horses, artwork associated with horse racing, or art associated with the historic Cowboy and Native American traditions of the Southwest. In the United Kingdom depictions of fox-hunting and nostalgic pastoral scenes involving horses continue to be made

It’s not difficult to see why the horse is such a timeless study; its incredible form and  musculature, its rebellious and wild streak, even beneath the bridle, its poetic grace and sensitivity, along with its capacity to carry a man and a load with great speed, presents an intriguing and challenging subject for the artist.

Suzanne Betz who shows at Taos Blue on Bent Street is a contemporary painter who continues to use the horse in her captivating work. I’ve featured Suzanne’s horses here before, but when Sue Westbrook at Taos Blue showed me these paintings, I thought they’d be perfect for September in Taos, especially during my Bent Street series (where we just visited the Ortenstone Delattre Gallery, Governor Bent’s former stables), where I’ve been spinning a few Wild West yarns on my stroll down the street. This Wednesday we visit the home of the ill fated Governor. 

Suzanne graduated from the Corcoran School of Art (now the Corcoran College of Art & Design) in Washington, D.C., and lived on the East Coast until she discovered Taos.

The horse has always been a favourite study of hers, appearing in sketches and paintings, but it wasn’t until she relocated to the West, that she began to truly explore those “early flights of imagination” with her first horse, a retired polo pony.

She paints many things besides horses – her second home in Hawaii provides rich inspiration as well, evident especially in her glorious, if restrained use of colour. She’s an exquisitely elegant artist – the gesture and disciplined use of both colour and line are refined and designed to conjure her subjects skillfully. Almost magically revealing the very soul and essence of these horses. Their fierce loyalty to the herd, along with their free-spirited nature is gorgeously captured and portrayed in these pieces hanging at Taos Blue.

The full moon arrives this weekend with the Paseo, making these images especially timely!

For more on Suzanne and her work please visit Taos Blue at their site linked below.

taosblue

 

 

Images (of Moon Glow#1 & #2 and Easy Crossing #1 & #2,  thanks to Taos Blue and Suzanne Betz

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Back On Bent Street

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On Wednesdays we go shopping.

Or window shopping at the very least, as we continue our walk around Downtown Taos.

This weekend the Historic District will be taken over by the PASEO; the marvellous creation of  Matt Thomas and Agnes Chavez, that has in a few short years become a Taos treasure. Along with Twirl, a fellow non-profit who dedicate their time, energy and resources to working with our children in all of our schools,  insuring the heritage of art and culture, supported by science, remains up front and center in Taos in the future as well as the present. 

No wonder then, the two are long time partners (along with several other local businesses and non-profits including the LOR Foundation), and this year as every year, Twirl will be celebrating the festival at their magical location on Teresina alley, that leads from the Plaza to Bent Street.

In 1846 Charles Bent was appointed Governor of the newly acquired territory of New Mexico during the Mexican–American War. 

Bent had been operating as a fur trader in the region since 1828, with his younger brother, William and later with their partner Ceran St. Vrain. Bent was a well-respected trader who owned a number of wagon trains on the Santa Fe Trail and trading posts in both Santa Fe and Taos. 

Though his main office was in Santa Fe, Bent as I noted in my first piece on Bent St., maintained his residence along with a trading post here in Taos. In 1835, Charles “Carlos” Bent had married Maria Ignacia Jaramillo, a local Taosena, whose younger sister, Josefa, would later marry Kit Carson, making the two men, brothers-in-law.

In addition to its store in Taos, the trading company established a series of “forts”, fortified trading posts, to facilitate trade with the Plains Indians, including Fort Saint Vrain on the South Platte River (a key trading center for Native Americans and early mountain men.)  Bent’s Fort on the Arkansas River in Colorado; and Fort Adobe on the Canadian River. Bent’s Fort has been restored and is now a National Historic Site.

Many New Mexico residents were unhappy with the new American rule. They mourned the loss of the old connection with Mexico and hated the new Governor serving under the U.S. war-time occupation, because of his negative attitude towards Mexicans. 

In December 1846, several influential families in the Territory fomented a revolt against the new rule. The Governor and Colonel Price revealed this conspiracy in advance and while some of the Taos Revolt leaders were arrested, two important leaders of the movement were able to escape.

It seemed as if the rebellion had been put down when Governor Charles Bent issued a proclamation, which some citizens thought was written in an arrogant and overbearing tone. 

As angry as local Hispanos were about Anglo-American rule, it was total culture shock to the Red Willow People and neighboring Tribes who had lived in the land for many centuries before being forced to  coexist with new settlers first during Spanish colonization, and then after possession by Mexico. 

On a cold day in January of 1847, Charles Bent had traveled to his adopted hometown of Taos, without military protection.

Later that evening, protesting American’s possession of the territory, an angry mob descended on the Governor’s home on what is now Bent Street, allegedly scalping him alive before murdering him. The women and children in the Bent home were not harmed by the insurgents, and fled to safety next door through a hole in the parlor wall.

Over the following few months, Colonel Price was able to reassure the country. Most rebels were caught and some of them executed. The uprising was finally crushed in July 1847.

Bent is buried in the National Cemetery in Santa Fe, while his family are interned in Kit Carson Cemetary in Taos.

Ironically, Bent had documented the indigenous Peoples of New Mexico in an essay which was published posthumously in Henry Schoolcraft’s study of American Indians: Bent, Charles (1846). “Indian Tribes of New Mexico”. In Schoolcraft, Henry R (ed.). Information respecting the history, condition and prospects of the Indian tribes of the United States. Vol. I. Philadelphia: Lippincott, Grambo & Company, 1851. pp. 242–246.

Located at 117 Bent Street, the Governor Bent House is now a private museum and gift shop, open to the public.  Inside the museum are Western relics, a few of the Bent family’s possessions and memorabilia along with artifacts of the uprising.

Within the house one can also see the hole in the wall that allowed his family members to escape. The museum also shows the work of local artists, while the gift shop sells books on Taos, as well as locally made jewelry and pottery.

The building is in the Pueblo Revival Vernacular built (or re-built), around 1835 of adobe stucco over adobe bricks and wood frame. The building has been on the State Register of Cultural Properties since 1969 and the National Register of Historic Places. The property is occupied by the museum, an art gallery and rental units.

It was one of the long-term residences on the historic street, and local lore has it, the original house was built prior to the first Pueblo uprising, in the 1600’s.

Apparently South West Ghosthunters checked the property with their instruments, and found smoke. As they say, where there’s smoke there’s fire, and perhaps the original home was burned down by Popay’s warriors!

During the 30’s Ida Gee ran a Boarding House here and here is where Tennessee Williams also stayed during his time in Taos. While there, do chat with Thomas Noeding, the manager of the museum, to discover even more about the building and the street!

The museum opens at 9am every day. Located at 117A Bent St.

Next door is Artemisia, named for the sagebrush that dots the desert landscape with the cedar and pinon, blessing the Land of Enchantment with its fragrant breezes. 

Owner Yvonne Swartz opened her store in 2002, in the same building also built during the 1830’s. (Until the 1950’s Bent Street was residential, and when I arrived in 1980, there were still apartments available for rent along the street.)

Artemisia has become a destination spot for visitors to Taos, for one of a kind hand-made wearable art, along with a selection of casual, yet elegant clothing all made with natural fibers.  Hand-woven originals by established fiber artists including Barbara Erlich, Elizabeth Jenkins, Bella Sue Martin and many others can be found here. 

Artemisia also represents a large group of wearable art designers; Alexis Abrams, Sylvia’s Couture, Linda St Angelo and Anne Vickery among them. 

Artemisia’s distinct style and aesthetic sets it apart from other clothing boutiques in Taos; Here you will truly find something unique that you won’t see everywhere on everyone. Whether you are shopping for yourself, or for a gift for a loved one, the friendly staff and excellent customer service will make your experience here very special and memorable. Which is why people return time and again!

For more on Artemisia  please visit their site linked below.

artemisiataos

Next Wednesday please join me as we stroll past the courtyard which once housed the coffee cart that morphed into World Cup Cafe and Elevation, past Lambert’s to the other end of Bent Street where there are more treasures to be discovered. At which point you’ll no doubt have almost everything on your Xmas gift giving list ticked off long before Black Friday arrives! But hold on because there’s more to come as we explore Taos, street by street, here on taoStyle every Wednesday!

For more on Bent Street and all of Downtown Taos,  please visit Taos.org.

taos.org

 

All images thanks to my trusty iphone, Artemisia and the Governor Bent Museum

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Maria Elena Cruz And The Country Singer

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“What if it had been me?”

My 16-year-old granddaughter Natalya Quintanilla, had appeared at my door red-eyed. She’d been crying all day. The night before a friend of hers, Maria Elena Cruz, 16, had been killed in a car crash near the “Blinking Light”. 

What if…” but it wasn’t,” I reminded her as I hugged and consoled her. “It could have been any of you, yes.” I said. But it wasn’t, thank God, I thought as I was taken back all those years to when my daughters were teenagers, in cars, driving or being driven.

When my daughters were that age, they along with a good friend, Maya Vargas, were traveling with their dad and his girlfriend at the time; my daughter Angelica drove his truck while he and Patricia drove in her car ahead of them. They had spent two weeks hiking and camping in the Grand Canyon in Arizona.

A tire blowout (brand new tires); my oldest daughter’s quick reflexes (she turned the truck into a cliff on the other side of the road from the drop into the canyon), and my youngest daughters decision to undo her seatbelt in the moment prior to the accident, saved their lives. Barely. Angelica and Maya sustained little physical injury, but the emotional trauma scarred them forever. Genevieve was not so lucky. An athlete and gymnast, she somersaulted out the windshield, landing on her butt, breaking her back. She was critically injured.

Angels appeared out of nowhere; and very soon she was on a helicopter to Flagstaff where after 8 hours on the operating table, the young and brilliant surgeon on duty, knitted her broken body back together.

As I flew to Flagstaff I prayed I wouldn’t lose my daughter – I had been told it was possible she could be paralyzed or worse.

We were lucky. Genevieve lived and as she rediscovered her body, she became the archetypal wounded healer; assisting others in their body awareness and healing as one of the co-founders of Shree Yoga Taos. Angelica and Maya are both mothers to teenage girls and I know that Maria’s death impacted them too.

“What if it was me?” Natalya asked. And it could have been. It could have been any of our daughters. Or sons.

Life and death are filled with mystery. A deputy fire chief who arrived on the scene of the fatal three-car crash involving country singer Kylie Rae Harris last week was unaware that his daughter was one of the victims.

Pedro Cruz, the deputy chief of the San Cristobal Volunteer Fire Department was not acting in a first responder capacity at the time and one can only imagine the traumatic experience he had. I remembered that my ex had watched his daughters’ crash in the rear view mirror.

The crash remains under investigation, but Taos Sheriff Jerry Hogrefe told reporters in a statement that “Miss Cruz was an innocent victim of this senseless crash caused by Ms. Harris.”

Harris was traveling on State Road 522 when she struck a vehicle from behind, sending her into oncoming traffic, where she collided head-on with a Jeep driven by Cruz, according to the Taos County Sheriff’s Office. The third driver was uninjured.

Hogrefe said investigators suspect speed and alcohol may have been factors in the crash. Investigators are still awaiting the toxicology report. Harris had a 2017 DWI conviction in Texas and had been court-ordered to install an ignition interlock device on her vehicle.

I made Natalya tea and something to nibble on, and talked to her as she sat at my table, grateful for my relationship with these grandkids I’m blessed with as I wondered the same thing she’d asked me. “What if…”

Let’s not forget as we celebrate all the changes Taos is ringing in – the music, the festivals, Taos Air and all the publicity and “Best Town” nominations, that we are also a community where real people live and raise their families.

Tragically, this accident happened during the Big Barn Dance weekend, where the young singer was slated to perform, and yes, it’s terribly sad that a child lost his mother, But what is more sad, is that a an hour or so before the accident, this young woman was video taping herself talking about how the trip to Taos was full of mixed feelings for her – that all her close relatives who spent time here died, and then she talked about being in an accident on this road with her dad and sister when still a kid. 

Driving at night, they had hit something while she was sleeping in the back seat. When she woke with a start she asked her father what it was. He told her it was a cattleguard, but later she learned they had hit a cow.

Right before she made her instagram video she had to stop for cows crossing the road which triggered the memory. If only she’d heeded the warning. But our narcissistic, selfie-culture is so absorbed in me me me navel gazing (evidently this doesn’t stop behind the wheel), and instead of slowing down, she speeded up.

In Taos, we were still recovering from another loss to our community (also in the wake of, and prior to, festivities and music), and perhaps Maria’s tragic and much too early departure from this world, should stand to remind us all of those real families and how they are grieving these losses, and like those cows crossing the road, her memory should serve as a warning to us all, to slow down. Be mindful. In all that we do.

Nothing is more precious than the gift of life and this beautiful young girl, on the cusp of womanhood, one of our own, had her life stolen by recklessness – a trait that seems to be more and more apparent along with gun violence and the aforementioned narcissism that prevails in Pop Culture.

We must resist it all, and mostly we need to look at our collective need to lionize and romanticize pop stars – placing them above us, and making idols out of them –  while we all know that the Gods have clay feet.

Our children deserve better.

 

maria’s family/gofundme

.A Lifetime To Overcome will be playing Taos Plaza Sunday as a benefit for the family of Maria Elena Cruz.

Editors Note: The Blinking Light (although no longer there), is home to Medley (which had its roof blown off in a storm recently), and was once named The Old Blinking Light in homage to the once upon a time traffic light that was in the vicinity. Coincidently, the restaurant was at one time home to The Big Barn Dance.

*If my daughter had not undone her seatbelt, ironically she most likely would have been killed, as that side (passenger),  of the truck was crushed in the crash.

 

 

Images stock files

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Clean Taos

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As the season changes, it’s time to get out the cold weather gear.

I don’t know about you, but I have a pile of coats and jackets that need their annual trip to the cleaners. If you live in Taos, that, until now, has been a bit of a problem.

A couple of years ago, my daughter Genevieve found herself in the same predicament. A velvet dress she owns needed cleaning. She knew no one in Taos had the expertise to clean the garment so she asked her sister, my daughter Angelica, where she took her clothes.

“To Santa Fe.” Was the response.

“I started asking other people,” she recalls, “and they all said the same thing.”

It was a lightbulb moment for Genevieve, who co-founded Shree Yoga Taos with Suki Dalury a decade ago, and in doing so, discovered an entrepreneurial streak she wasn’t aware of prior.

As luck would have it, she learned the  cleaners who were housed in the old Kentucky Fried Chicken building were going out of business.

For 16 months, she and her husband, Nathan Oswald, have been quietly working away on bringing the building up to code and investing time, energy and money into cleaning, restoring and reinventing the way dry cleaning has been done in Taos.

“I couldn’t do this unless it was ethical and sustainable,” Genevieve says, as she talks about her decision to open an eco-friendly cleaners. With zero experience in the industry, she spent time researching and even took a two-week course on dry cleaning in NYC., while Nathan continued to work on the building, preparing it for the new machinery they planned to purchase. And of course practice makes perfect, and practice they did. On all of our (their family’s) clothes!

They have hired a couple of part-time employees to work with them and will offer services including wash and fold, dry cleaning, pressing and mending. Eventually Genevieve hopes to include alterations on her list of available services, but for now she says she’ll stick to the basics.

“Hems, buttons, holes.” She smiles.

After 10 years of owning her own business, although a little nervous about opening another, she’s confident that she can manage and run the cleaners quite efficiently. She’s also confident in her husband’s ability to care for the state of the art equipment they’ve invested in. Their combined expertise is the foundation of this endeavor.

“I’ve had lots of experience in business and customer service, “ she reminds me, “and I had a great mentor.” Tears well in her eyes.

“You know one of the last things  Patrick,” (Larkin, whom she worked for at the World Cup Cafe for a decade), asked me, was “When are you opening?” I was totally unsettled by that and went home and asked Oz (Nathan’s nickname), if he thought it was a bit aggressive,” She laughs through her tears. “But he responded that he thought it a perfectly valid question.” 

Now, they are ready to open, and their timing could not be better!

The Amazon rainforest is burning, a teenager sails across the Atlantic to attend UN climate summits, and we’ve been warned  that our ability to sustain the inevitable effects of the climate crisis is gravely insufficient.

On the first day of London Fashion Week SS20 and outside the event’s main show space on The Strand, Extinction Rebellion protestors lay covered in fake blood, staging a die-in. 

After the Swedish Fashion Council’s decision to cancel Stockholm Fashion Week, Extinction Rebellion wrote a letter  to the British Fashion Council, asking for London Fashion Week to be cancelled too. 

“We have a unique opportunity to consider how fashion can be reborn as a cultural medium with a regenerative effect on the people, planet, animals and generations to come.” 

The reply from BFC Chief Executive Caroline Rush invited the group to meet and discuss plans for internal change, but with no alterations made to the LFW schedule, the group decided to take action by taking their cause to the streets.

Extinction Rebellion are part of a much larger, growing movement; Fashion Revolution is a global call  for greater transparency, sustainability and ethics in the fashion industry.

They call for a revolution to radically change the way our clothes are sourced, produced and purchased, so that what the world wears has been made in a safe, clean and fair way, and actions like fashion week die-ins,  might seem extreme, but are absolutely crucial now 

With this awareness, more and more people are relearning the art of “make do and mend,” tailoring and recycling old clothes, preventing moth and insect damage and darning are all being resurrected as the wasteful throwaway nature of fast fashion is being reevaluated. People are starting to take better care of the clothes they already own, and that starts with keeping them clean!

Moths feast on stains and dirt. They are not as fond of clean textiles it appears, so if you want that cashmere to last the lifetime it promises, keep it clean, and especially before you store it away during the warmer months.

Wool and down outerwear also needs a seasonal sprucing up and now you can rest assured they’ll be returned to you in mint condition; spotless, pressed and cleaned but without the toxicity.

Along with the services they provide, Clean will also carry a few retail items and did I already tell you how great it looks in there, with the shiny new machines and sweet decorative touches, including Zoe Zimmerman’s fabulous photographs hanging on the walls?

It’s really bright and light, with no chemical smells lingering, and it’s also very clean!

My coats and jackets are ready to go as soon as I see that open sign in Clean Taos’ window!

Clean Taos is located at 206 Paseo del Pueblo Sur and a little bird tells me they open tomorrow. When they get their site up, I’ll add the link below.

For more on the Fashion Revolution, please see their site linked below.

fashionrevolution

 

All images taken on my iphone

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Bent Street’s Other End

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Bent Street was one of the early residential streets in Taos. 

Named after Charles Bent, New Mexico’s first territorial Governor, who lived and died on this street.It is also the site of the house of Long John Dunn, gambler and stage-coach driver.

As we strolled down this street over the past few Wednesdays, I’ve told a few stories about Bent Street’s history, and the man it is named for.

Although his office was in Santa Fe, Bent maintained his residence and a trading post in Taos, New Mexico Territory, in what is present-day New Mexico. On January 19, 1847,  Bent was scalped and killed by Pueblo warriors, during the Taos Revolt, not to be confused with the Pueblo Revolt, which was the largest and most successful Native American uprising in North American history.

The Spaniards had arrived in the Americas fresh from their Reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula (780 years between the Umayyad conquest of Hispania in 711 and the fall of the Nasrid kingdom of Granada),  to the expanding Christian kingdoms in 1492, and had tried to force the Native Peoples to convert to Christianity as they had done to the Moors and Jews. The Pueblo Revolt of 1680—also known as Popé’s Rebellion—was an uprising of most of the indigenous Pueblo people against the Spanish colonizers in the province of Santa Fe de Nuevo Mexico, present day New Mexico. The Pueblo Revolt killed 400 Spaniards and drove the remaining 2,000 settlers out of the province.

The Taos Revolt was a popular insurrection by Hispano and Pueblo allies against the United States’ occupation of present-day northern New Mexico during the Mexican–American War. The Mexican–American War began in 1846, when Stephen W. Kearny led 1,700 American troops into Santa Fe without encountering any resistance. 

Before the invasion, in Taos, Padre Martínez had witnessed the animosity towards Native Americans and Mexicans displayed by the Anglos living in New Mexico. He encouraged his students to study law and it was to them he delivered his famous quote, “The American government resembles a burro; but on this burro lawyers will ride, not priests.”

Within a year of the American occupation, the Taos Revolt occurred. Charles Bent, the newly appointed American governor of New Mexico, was assassinated during the uprising.

American forces quickly regained power, instituted martial law, and executed the rebels involved. Many, including Kit Carson, believed Martínez himself took part in some way in instigating the rebellion, but nothing has ever been proven.

In a letter to a friend in Santa Fe, Martínez commented that he thought the American reprisals were too harsh and would hinder future relations between New Mexico and its new rulers, but despite this, he was able to adjust to the administration and for the following  seven years, he would play a dominant role in the legislative sessions of the new Territory.

With the new government came new leadership, both political and religious. Jean Baptiste Lamy, a Frenchman nearly 21 years younger than Martínez, became the vicar apostolic of Santa Fe in 1851. Martínez supported Lamy until January 1854 when Lamy issued a letter instituting mandatory tithing and decreeing that heads of families that failed to tithe be denied the sacraments. 

Martínez publicly protested the letter and openly contested it in the secular press. From then on, Lamy and Martínez clashed over many issues, such as the effects of frontier life on Catholic standards, and women’s issues. The two also argued over interpretations of canon law. The situation worsened  when Lamy wrote a letter explaining that he felt New Mexicans faced a problematic future because they didn’t have “the intellectual liveliness of Americans”, and that “their morals were primitive.

These comments outraged northern New Mexicans, causing the clergy of New Mexico to write a letter directly to the Pope, expressing their concern about Lamy. Martínez was not involved in the letter but continued to write communiques criticizing Lamy for the Santa Fe Gazette.

Death Comes for the Archbishop is a 1927 highly acclaimed, novel by American author Willa Cather. It concerns the attempts of a Catholic bishop and a priest to establish a diocese in New Mexico Territory. Cather it is said, completed the book here in Taos, while staying in the “pink house” Mabel Dodge built for D.H. Lawrence.

Those days are long behind us now, and although Taos remains rooted in old tradition, more of a live and let live philosophy prevails. Hindus, Buddhists, Muslims and Jews all co-exist here now together with Hispano Catholics and the Red Willow People who still honor their ancient ways.

At the other end of Bent Street where many artists once lived and painted in the studio/living spaces they occupied, beyond the courtyard that once housed the coffee cart, past the old house that has long been a restaurant across from the odd corner”island”that leans toward the John Dunn Shops, Bent Street narrows as it winds its way to Placitas Road.

Here you’ll find three of the best galleries in Taos.  

Approaching  MoMo with its bright red 3D cube sign at the top of the path, you know you are in for something different.

At MoMo, owned by jeweler,  Moriah Stanton (who has truly exquisite taste), you’ll find Fine Art, jewelry (her creations and others), pottery , textiles, unique accessories and sustainably made, very minimalist and refined clothing.

“Beautiful things for people with discerning tastes.” Moriah says.

The gallery focuses on mostly young, very hip and talented local artisans,

Entering the Parsons Gallery,  one feels as if one has taken a step back in time; the magical Taos light filters through the windows casting a golden glow on the traditional adobe walls, upon which hang Taos Masters, past and present.

Look no further for traditional historic Taos Art,  authentic works with Provenance. The gallery also deals in Vintage Navajo weavings, WPA and Spanish Colonial furniture as well as Fine Art.

Owned and managed by Robert Parsons and Ashley Rolshoven, the gallery is located in the old Maxwell home in one of the most beautifully restored buildings on Bent Street.

Max Jones and Tony Walker (Jones Walker Gallery), came to Taos from Dallas a few years ago and moved into the old house most recently occupied by the Rancho Milagro Gallery who represented Jim Wagner. The house was built in 1768, making it one of the oldest on the street, and you can still find Wagner’s charming folksy paintings on these walls!

“We carry iconic art by Living Taos artists,” they told me, and the rooms are truly a treasure trove of discovery. Along with Wagner’s distinctive pieces, they represent artists working in many genres; from Modern Abstract Expressionists  to Classic plein air landscape painters.

Pottery, weavings, art glass, textiles  and Vintage home accents all serve to complement the bold and beautiful work they carry.

For more on all of these very special galleries, please visit the sites linked below.

Thank you for joining me on my walkabout in Taos. I’ll be back next Wednesday with another street and more stories!

momotaos

joneswalker

parsonsart

For more on Bent Street and all of Downtown Taos,  please visit Taos.org.

taos.org

 

 

All images either stock files or taken on my iphone

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Gold Rush

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Leaves are turning.

This morning on my walk along the acequia, I noticed the splashes of gold and red appearing among the still green foliage of late summer.

Fall is here; soon we will be bundling up in warm woolens and heavy coats (reminder to take yours to the newly opened, Clean Taos), and sipping welcoming mugs of hot chocolate. But for the moment, brisk mornings and evenings aside, the days are balmy and Indian Summer will hopefully stick around for a while!

At this time of year people all over celebrate the Harvest Season –  for the Jews, this is the most sacred season of all with the advent of the High Holy Days beginning next week on the Gregorian calendar. Next weekend as well, San Geronimo Feast Day is celebrated at Taos Pueblo, later, next month the ancient Celts honored Samhain which has morphed into our modern-day Halloween, when traditionally here in Taos, our first snow arrives. 

This is quite possibly my favourite season in Northern New Mexico, as the mountains begin to shimmer golden beneath the brilliant blue skies, and while it’s still warm enough to enjoy a cup of tea outside in the afternoon sun.

As the Equinox arrives to herald the change of Season, I’m thinking about all the great things we get to enjoy during Autumn in Taos, beginning with the turning leaves!

So as you begin making plans for late September and October, be sure to include a hike, road trip, or train ride to see the majestic vistas that are unique to New Mexico in fall. With prime fall foliage just around the corner, I’ve got all the details of when the colors will soon be blazing.

Weather prognostication may be the most popular Taos pastime: When will the first snow fall? When will the ice melt? And, of course, when will the leaves change? The annual turning of the aspens especially, that glorious and fleeting moment in time when the mountains are awash in gold and crimson, is one of the most beautiful times of year here, but predicting peak “Gold Rush” season can be a bit dicey.

However,  that moment  will soon be upon us and so I thought I’d look into the actual process of the leaves “turning”, and discovered it is a matter of chlorophyll. When the temperatures get cooler, it’s a signal to trees that winter is coming. As a result, the leaves put down a layer of cells that cause the tree to block chlorophyll from getting back into the leaves. Since it doesn’t rejuvenate, the remaining pigment—those stunning yellows and oranges—is revealed. These are the fall colors we see in the aspens and cottonwoods. Other colors, like reds and purples, are a result of chemical changes within the leaves themselves. 

So what we really want for the perfect color days are abundant sunshine and low temperatures—not cold temperatures and not freezing temperatures, so with the warm temperatures that we are currently enjoying,  we are looking at a narrow window of a week or two.

It may be difficult to predict the exact timing of when the fall foliage will peak, but most experts are saying that between September 24  and October 24th we should be awash in golds, reds, copper and bronze! There are plenty of driving routes that will take you through the “Gold Rush” in the mountains, The Aspens in the mountains above Taos are starting to turn, and by mid-October should be a magnificent sight!  Check the webcam at Taos Ski Valley for current views.

The Carson National Forest is home to the famed Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway, a loop of over 80 miles, focused around the highest peak in New Mexico, Wheeler Peak. The loop starts and ends in Taos, which has a reputation for being one of the most beautiful locations for fall colors in New Mexico. It was named  New Mexico’s Best Fall Foliage Small Town by Country Living Magazine.

The Enchanted Circle which includes Red River, Eagle Nest, Angel Fire and Taos. is a gorgeous drive at this time of years with stellar views for miles. 

For an enchanting scenic drive, head North from Taos on Highway 522 to Questa, then, go East on Highway 38, through Red River and Elizabethtown, until you reach Eagle’s Nest. This is where you get to start the best part of the drive, going South on Highway 64, through Angel Fire, and right back to Taos. The trip is 85 miles and can take three to six hours, depending on whether you take your time to experience the truly spectacular views.

If you plan your trip for the end of October, you could even be in Taos for the Taos Mountain Balloon Rally from October 25 -27th. Much smaller than the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta, this event  makes it possible to viewers to get much closer to the action. Another exciting option for viewing the fall colors of the Carson National Forest is to book a ride on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. The ride starts in Chama, New Mexico, travels through the Carson National Forest, and ends up in Antonito, Colorado. You might want to book early to get a seat, but even if you’re too late to enjoy this unique experience this year, you can prepare for next year.

Along with the sites for the TSV Webcam,  Cumbres & Toltec  Railroad and the Taos Mountain Balloon Rally, do check Taos.org linked below for places to stay and more ideas on planning your trip.

taos.org

Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad.

Taos Mountain Balloon Rally 

skitaoswebcam

 

With this post celebrating Nature, I invite you to join me in standing in solidarity with the Global Climate Strike. (Sept 20-27th.)

Please visit the site below for information as to how you can get involved.

globalclimatestrike

The gorgeous photographs you see here were taken by Geraint Smith.

geraintsmith.com

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Spirit & Soul

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Facing death is never easy.

No matter how the loved one departs. But when the ones you love are taken violently, it casts a different shadow.

With poetry I find it is easier to express the feelings, these deep emotions we ride like a wave after losing a loved one. Inside the glassy cavern, alone, afraid – one could drown here – one faces their own darkness and their shadow and emerges the hero, the heroine of their own story, but here, where prose is the communicator, I find it more difficult to choose the words needed to articulate what I felt yesterday on that mountain I rarely frequent.

Unlike Patrick Larkin ( and countless others, there), I do not ski and frankly, I’m not too keen on cold weather and snow.  But yesterday as this community converged on the mountain that Patrick loved, I found myself part of a collective, revisiting those dark labyrinths and winding corridors of time and fate.

Loss and grief – the collision with mortality – the endings that signal new beginnings. The fragility of life we are reminded of when someone dear is taken from our midst.

Yesterday Ted Wiard also reminded us of the value of community and love during times like these; of the love Patrick had for his family, his friends and his community; his love of the mountains, of travel and adventure. His commitment to a meaningful life; a sustainable life – practicing what he preached – his work ethic born on his grandfather’s Minnesota farm and how that translated to his life here, and of course, the ‘Cup.

Ted himself also practices what he preaches and is currently mentoring and guiding a few people quite close to my heart. He is a hero of mine. After the shattering loss of his first wife and two young daughters, he has healed his own unimaginable heartbreak and grief, and has devoted his life to helping others through their own labyrinths of loss.

Golden Willow, the healing center and retreat he founded, is a blessing for our community and beyond. Ted is a Taos Treasure. He lost his mother earlier this year, so is in the midst of his own grieving, but yesterday, he was present for us all with his own, generous heart, wide open.

Andrea sat with Oona and her mother in front of Ted (three generations of Dignity), as the few friends she had asked to speak took their turn. We were again reminded of life’s fleeting nature as each of them talked about Patrick.

Jonah Salloway eloquently delivered a sensitive and classic eulogy Patrick surely would have approved of. Well written  by someone he considered a close friend, it included a short bio of Patrick’s life, along with personal memories, stories and the qualities which made Patrick who he was. It was heartfelt and also heart-wrenching, to hear Jonah speak of the sense of connection Patrick imparted to him; the sense of belonging.

A long time friend whom he had met quite by chance on a ski lift somewhere, teared up as he spoke of Patrick’s loyalty and generosity. His heart. Another broke down as he tried to express what Patrick had meant to him. It was excruciating to witness the collective pain in that moment, as we all crowded onto the deck at the St. Bernard, as the midday sun blazed down.

My daughter Genevieve told us all about life at the “Cappucino College”, and made us all smile as she recounted her decade long education in crema and customer service. Patrick did well. After a decade in his employee, my laziest kid became an  entrepreneurial dynamo as well a damn good writer with a meticulous sense of detail. Tomorrow is her birthday and I’m so grateful to be able to celebrate it with her.

Stories always help at gatherings like this; they assist us in traversing the pathway back to life, the singular memories and amusing anecdotes can offer insight into the character of the person that passed away, and help us to reflect on the good times, rather than remain steeped in sorrow. The sense of connection yesterday was profound. There was so much love on that deck. Thank you Ted.  And thanks to all who shared so much of their own tangled emotion, spirit and soul, in story and song.

Surrounded by children and grandkids (two of mine were there), I felt extraordinarily blessed to be a part of this remarkable community and I came away knowing that Andrea and her daughter will be just fine, embraced and supported by such loving arms, and hearts.

When I got home, I realized that standing outside in that blazing midday sun, wearing a t-shirt, I had a mega sunburn! Thank goodness I’d thrown a cap in my bag, so my face was somewhat protected, but my arms and chest were bright red. After pouring a cup of vinegar into a hot bath and soaking for twenty minutes, I slathered myself with Toni Leigh’s Oshara face cream. I’ve long used this product on my face and together with the serum it’s my go-to skin care. Toni, an Ayurvedic Herbalist, lived in Taos for many years when she founded Desert Blends of Taos, the Spa, Body, Bath Skincare line that includes Oshara.

I woke up this morning with the redness all but faded into tan, and no burning. Toni’s products are currently being rebranded, so the labels will soon change, but the fabulous product made from local, wild-crafted botanicals remains the same. You can find them at Cid’s in Taos. Up here, our skin truly is “ravaged by the elements” and yesterday, mine certainly appeared that way, but thanks to Oshara’s magic, it healed overnight!

Toni has formulated her line specifically for the High Desert climate which is Vata Pita according to Ayurveda  and during the time that I worked for her here in Taos, I came to know and appreciate her deep knowledge and understanding of Nature’s medicine. The plants are prayed over and approached with respect and love. As they should be, as all sentient beings should be. But most importantly, this stuff works. It protects from, and heals sun damage.

That relentless sun enters balanced, harmony-seeking Libra today at the same time we celebrate the Fall Equinox. This means that day and night are equal in length, causing us to search for balance and equilibrium in our lives. Right now, we could all use a little of both.

This morning as I walked along the acequia, I gave thanks to the mountain for family, friends and this truly blessed and sacred place we call home, for the people, flora and fauna that gift us with love and healing and when I returned to my studio to make coffee and check my emails etc. I saw Ted Wiard’s post on Facebook; I’d liked an image I’d seen last night, but today I noticed it was captioned “Spirit” along with “Ted’s Toolbox” (hat, flowers, tissues and glasses.) The flowers were the same marigolds that I photographed outside the ‘Cup after Patrick was killed.

The World Cup has been festooned with garlands of them, inside and out, ever since. If they are cleaned up or removed, they reappear.

“They come when we are not here,” Marianne Fahrney told me when I went in for coffee last week. “In the middle of the night.”

The Neem Karoli Baba Ashram is no doubt the source of the sweet culprit; Flower Power wins the day, in every way.

 

 

For more information on Ted Wiard and Golden Willow, please visit the site linked below.

goldenwillow

Toni Leigh’s plant magic Desert Blends products are available at Cid’s in Taos. Please visit her site below as well.

desert blends

 

 

Top and bottom images taken on my iphone. Ted’s “Toolbox” lifted from his Facebook page.

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24 Hours In Taos

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Part of the joy of traveling is  experiencing change.

 Not only in one’s surroundings, but also in oneself; gifting you with perspective, clarity as well as a new point of view.

Conversing with people who live where you are visiting can be an eye opening experience and here in Taos, I think that’s especially true. Where the layers of our community resemble nothing less than those of an onion; myriad, unique and diverse communities within communities. People who visit for the first time and engage with locals, leave enchanted by the synchronistic connections and seeming coincidences.

Taos is in many ways (and I hate to sound New Agey), a vortex of sorts. Apart from it’s majestic beauty, it is and has long been, an Art Colony. And artists are, for the most part, an interesting lot. Even the business people in Taos seem to have a slightly eccentric bent, as if upon arrival, magical dust was sprinkled over them, changing them and their lives forever.

 

Of course not all feel that way. And neither it seems, does Taos feel that way about them! There’s a saying here that tells us the Mountain decides who stays and who gets “spit out.”  Perhaps that’s only the case if one decides to settle here, but another little maxim informs that if you see the face in the Mountain the first time you look at it, you’ll return.I did and I did and here, after four decades ( off and on), I am. Dare I say New Mexico is enchanting? 

So if you are in the mood for an adventure in the High Desert  (alpine lovers rejoice – we have you covered too.) Whether you come for a week or a day, here are a few things to do in during 24 hours in Taos.

In the Town of Taos, everything is located on one main road that travels through town and ends in the ski valley. There are big skies with views of the mountains in every direction. The center of town (Historic District),  is a warren of streets and alleyways dating back in parts to the 17th century. Here you’ll find a cluster of shops, galleries and restaurants. 

Except for a few big box stores on the strip south of town, big industry has not (yet) touched Taos, and the town is made up of locally owned shops, restaurants, and even grocery stores. And no, there is not a real Starbucks. An outpost at Albertsons sells Starbucks coffee but you’d be advised to stay clear and try one of our local cafes instead. Not just for the better brew, but for people watching opportunities as well. Here, as well as in the shops and galleries,  is where you are most likely to engage in conversation with a few locals. 

Keeping with the old tradition of keeping evil spirits away, doorways in the Historic District of often painted “Taos Blue” and this time of year, dried chile ristras hang  from both sides. The shops open between 9-11. There is a very relaxed vibe here re/ opening and closing. You will even see signs saying, “We open at 10, but it’s a miracle if I’m here at 10.” 

Some of us call it “Taos Time.”

You’ll find that most of these proprietors are transplants who visited Taos and never left. Some grew up in Taos, moved away, traveled and came back. You’ll meet people from London, Hawaii, Colorado, L.A., Minnesota, and New York. After years here, they are a million miles from their former homes; their relaxed manner and  artsy/bohemian laissez faire, is exotic and often quite foreign, to those visiting from more urban locals. But mostly you be delighted by the treasures you’ll discover in these little shops and galleries that will remind you of Taos once you return home.

Coffee;

The World Cup Cafe is the epicenter of Taos; here you will get plugged in to what’s going on in our little town. The flyers and posters that paper the windows of this local hub , will tell you all you need to know about what’s happening while you are here!

Breakfast:

Michael’s Kitchen is one tried and true breakfast spot for visitors, but for more local flavor, head straight to the Northside Diner for  friendly service, good portions and a delicious breakfast of Huevos Rancheros topped with chile. Order “Christmas” for both red and green. If it’s too hot for your palate, request a side of sour cream.

Lunch:

Manzanita Market on the Plaza is a local go to these days. Farm to Table, local produce and understated but very chic ambiance make it my number one. The bone broth based soups are out of this world. And if ice cream is not your jam (it might be once you try theirs’ – the vegan variety as well), you can walk across the alley to Chokola for some sipping chocolate topped with white chocolate mousse,

Dinner:

Lots of choices here; Lamberts, Love Apple, The Ranchos Trading Post or the Taos Inn’s Doc Martin’s. If casual and relaxed appeals, sit in the Adobe Bar and order the award winning green chile. Orlando’s is fab for traditional fare and is a casual dining spot and family friendly as well. 

Groceries:

Cid’s Food Market – is a bit like Whole foods, but better. You can stock up on some healthy hiking snacks here, as well as picnic bites for once you reach your destination. There’s a hot and cold bar, as we;ll as pre packaged deli items.

Wine, Beer & Spirits

Need a nightcap in your room before bed? After you’ve done the grocery shopping head to the Cellar for a huge selection of wines, craft beers and hard to find liquors. You’ll sleep like a baby.

Hike:

Exploring Taos Ski Valley is a must do at any time of year. After a beautiful 15 minute scenic, drive from the center of town you’ll arrive at the end of the road, at the Taos Ski Valley Resort.  Along the way to the resort, there are multiple trailheads from two mile long Williams Lake trail #62, to a challenging Wheeler Peak Trail #90 – 7 miles long (one way). The trails’ elevation climb up to 13,131 feet. For easier going, hike the Gavilan trail #60, 2.4 miles to the top, for the beautiful turning aspens, three meadows, and the feeling of being 11,200 feet above sea level. This is a gorgeous fall hike. My advice is to wear layers, it becomes colder at the top and if you are paranoid about bears like I am, purchase some bear spray from Mudd N Flood on Bent street, before you go!

See:

The Rio Grand Gorge Bridge spans a massive slice in the earth, above the river at  the very bottom, banked by steep rocky sides, where herds of Big Horned Sheep roam. 

Remember to take water and sunscreen on all outdoor excursions. We are high and dry up here.

Night Life:

There’s live music everywhere. Check the World Cup, Live Taos and the Taos News for deets.

The Alley Cantina is a local fave with live music every night. The food is decent and the joint is always packed. 

Taos Mesa Brewery Tap Room is the place to go if you need a break from all the chili. Handmade artisan pizzas and  their selection of craft beers will make you feel as if you are back in America.

Friendly service along with the industrial-modern atmosphere make it a great place to hang out for the night. 

If you really want  to step out of your normal life and comfort zone, head directly to the Mesa Brewing’s “ Mothership” for music and more beer on the edge of Taos Mesa. For a real trip out of time, book a night’s stay at Hotel Luna Mystica for a fullon Taos experience. 

For much more on how to plan your trip, where to stay and what to do once you get here, please visit Taos.org linked below.

taos.org

 

 

All images Stock Files

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Angus MacDonald At The Blumenschein

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Margo Beutler-Gins knows a thing or two about Taos Masters.

Her great-grandfather was none other than Bert Phillips, one of the co-founders of the Taos Society of Artists. Bert married Rose Martin (“Doc” Martin’s intrepid sister), and the rest is history. Margo was born and raised in this valley, sending her family roots three generations down into Taos’ hallowed ground. 

So when Margo announced she was initiating a “New Masters of Taos,” series of exhibits at the Blumenschein (Taos Historic Museums), of which she has been President for the past three years, I didn’t blink. For one thing, I know that Margo who is an Art Biz whiz, having grown up around art, art galleries and art dealers (her father, Bill Beutler included), she’s also a talented artist herself with Phillips’ DNA firmly embedded in her genes. If anyone can spot a “new” Taos Master in the image of the old ones, it’s she.

And Robert Parsons of course, who deals in them, both past and present at his two eponymous galleries.

One day while we were having lunch a couple of years ago, Margo asked me if I’d heard of a painter called Angus MacDonald. I told her I’d written his biography about a decade ago. The subject changed (we both move fast), and I forgot about it until early last spring, when Angus called out of the blue inviting me to have coffee with him. He wanted to talk about his Italian sojourn, from which he’d just returned.

After we met, I called Margo and arranged a meeting between them. Angus asked me to come along. So I did the first couple of times they met, until Angus (who despite his background in radio and on the silver screen, is a man of few words, and quite shy), got to know Margo who in turn covers up her shyness with stream of consciousness banter. Amused by their encounters, I recalled my attempts at interviewing Angus for the book he had commissioned me to write in 2010. (Angus MacDonald: An American Artist.) It wasn’t until I hit on the idea of emailing him after each encounter, asking him to extrapolate on specific things he told me, that I began to accumulate enough material to make up the text for the book. 

It didn’t take long for the two of them to find common ground however, both of them being Westerners through and through, and when I joined them yesterday, they seemed like old friends, laughing and even joking together as they discussed Angus’ upcoming show at the Blumenschein.

Opening next week, the show will include several new paintings inspired by Angus’ trip to Italy, which impacted him so profoundly, he’s returning right after his show, for a few months. He hopes to travel to France, as well as seeing more of Italy than he did last time. For all of his cumulative experience, Angus had never been to Europe. His farthest flung adventures took him as far as Mexico and Hawaii where he recently discovered some surprising, Japanese roots!

Kobun Chino Otogawa was a famed (Japanese), teacher and practitioner of Zen Buddhism who impacted  Angus’ life more than any other had or would. For the next decade after meeting him, Angus studied with the Master and was ordained by Kobun into the lineage of Zen Monks he descended from.

Angus first met Kobun in the early 80’s. He had come to Taos with his late wife Wanda, to visit an old friend, fellow artist, Kelly Pruitt. He had been casting bronzes at Shidoni in Santa Fe and decided to come here on his way back to Marfa.

“One day I was walking down the boardwalk between the Plaza and Bent Street,” he recalls, “and met Kobun.”

Soon he and Wanda relocated to Taos, and Angus has been here, sitting ZaZen and working away on his art ever since. When Kobun died trying to save his drowning daughter in a lake in Switzerland in 2002, Angus mourned his loss, but feels his presence constantly.

“I got my DNA results back recently,” Angus told me, “and after doing a bit of research, found out that one of my great-grandparents who was Portuguese, and had come to Hawaii, had a Japanese father.” He chuckled. “Kobun would have loved that.” He mused. 

Angus MacDonald’s story is almost implausible. Like Margo, he too had a charmed youth; exposed to the arts, film and fame at an early age. Born and raised in Marfa, Texas, when Marfa was just another small town in Big Bend country, Angus’ mother was a talented musician and artist who was often gone for months on end playing in orchestras all over Texas. His father was killed in combat in  the South Pacific when he was still a baby, and he and his brother (who went on to become a major Radio personality), were raised by their maternal grandmother who owned the Marfa Hotel.

Descended from a noble Scottish family on his mother’s side (he uses the family name MacDonald), Angus traces his heritage back to the Highland (Glengarry) MacDonalds who protected Bonnie Prince Charlie from Cumberland’s forces during the Jacobite uprisings. The family came to Texas from Hannibal, Missouri by way of Virginia and Kentucky after the Civil War.

His great, great Aunt, Cornelia Peake MacDonald’s diary (A Woman’s Civil War) continues to be consulted by scholars researching the Civil War years in the American South. Cornelia’s father, Dr. Humphrey Peake (from Hannibal, Missouri) was mentioned in Mark Twain’s autobiography as “an aristocrat whose wisdom was respected by his listeners.”

Samuel Clemens aka Mark Twain’s father was the Justice of the Peace in Hannibal during the time the family resided there, before settling in Texas. Eventually the family wound up in Marfa. Angus’ grandmother bought the old hotel after WWII and ran it until she died. 

When Angus was 15, the cast and crew (including the late Taos resident, Dennis Hopper) of Giant came to town. Many stayed at the Marfa Hotel while they filmed the saga of the mythical  Ranch, Reata, which Angus would name his short-lived gallery on Kit Carson Road, for, years later.

Dick Moder whom Angus met during that time, would play a big part in Angus’ life. Dick told Angus that if he came to Hollywood after he finished school, he’d help him find work. Years later, in Hollywood, Angus met Dick’s son Mike (Taos resident Julia Roberts’ father-in-law’s ) who remains a close friend.

As a teenager, Angus had worked on local ranches as a cowboy, often crossing the border into Mexico herding thousands of heads of cattle. He would also draw, covering his notebooks in sketches made from memory and imagination, along with notes recounting his adventures. After joining the army at 18, Angus found himself serving with the Military Police in Brooklyn. Hearing that the famed illustrator Norman Rockwell, was teaching in Connecticut, he decided to take classes. The art of illustration would provide him with a good livelihood once he returned to Texas.

In his absence, his brother, Mike (Oatman) went on to become the Program Director at KHEY in El Paso, so after completing his service, Angus got his FCC license and worked at KHEY for the next four years (moonlighting as an illustrator), before relocating  to Tucson, Arizona, where he worked at KHOS for five more years. It was in Tucson where the movies came calling after he’d made a name for himself in yet another side gig; riding Rodeo. After a few stunt roles, he met Mike Moder who gave him a role in Rio Lobo.

Angus moved to Los Angeles and stayed for more than a decade, but his heart wasn’t really in it, so one day, he packed up his belongings, loaded them all into the brand new sports car that he bought before he left, and made his way back to Marfa, where he turned the top floor of the hotel into his studio, and went to work.

When Angus and I met for lunch last week,  to talk about his show, I mentioned I’d recently seen Once Upon A Time in Hollywood, Quentin Tarantino’s brilliant time capsule into 60’s Hollywood and the Manson murders. “It sounds like the story of my life,” Angus laughed, as he recalled working on the Spahn Ranch and seeing Manson’s girls dumpster diving in the area. “That coulda been about me,” he shook his head when I told him Pitt’s character in the film, is a stuntman.

In 2010 Angus had approached me to write a biography about his life. Two years later the book was published. The book is filled with color plates of the artist’s work alongside the biography, and will be available for purchase at the Blumenschein during his show. Except for a few editing errors, including the spelling of his friends, the Carradine brothers’ name, which I fought Angus over tooth and nail (but he won even though he was wrong), I am grateful to have been a part of it.

The opportunity to work with Angus was a real gift and I learned so much during the process. I also came away from it with a friend. Margo too has become a friend, and so as I sat with Angus that early spring day, I remembered her having asked me about him, and told him about her,

“Would you like me to introduce you?” I had asked him. He shyly responded that he’d meet her if I was there. So the following week, the three of us had sat together at the same table, in the La Fonda on Taos Plaza, next door to the old theatre Margo’s father once owned. Not even a year has passed and here we are.

Last week I asked Angus how he was feeling; this being his first public show in Taos since closing Reata a year before his wife Wanda passed, so he could care for her. It has been a year and a half of grieving her loss and I hoped this show and his forthcoming trip would dispel some sorrow. 

“Thirty-seven years is a long time to spend with someone,” he commented after I’d asked how he was doing. But he was upbeat about his upcoming show.

“Oh it’s a great honor for me,” he responded. “To be showing in the home and studio of such a great painter – and in the company of other great artists – means a lot.” He reflected on his years of working quietly away in Taos, no fanfare, no publicity. Not many would even begin to guess that the cowboy sharply dressed in his pressed jeans, Stetson and boots, strolling across the plaza to his bright red convertible VW, was an artist, let alone a Zen monk.  Understated does not even begin to describe Angus’ approach to his work; it is his practice. He just does it. Like sitting ZaZen. 

“Facing the wall,” he says.

“How is Angus doing?” Robert Parsons asked me sometime ago. 

“Painting away.” I responded.

“He’s a very good painter,” Robert said. “I showed his work for a while.”

“If anyone deserves to be called a Taos Master, it’s Angus,” Margo said yesterday as the three of us had lunch together. “He uses the same palette as the TSA, the colors he paints with are the colors of Taos, and like the TSA he is an artist who has developed his own collector’s list, he understands the business of art.”

And that is true. Angus, for all his understatement, sells his work. While other artists and galleries complain about their lack of sales this season, Angus’ work continues to be sold to old and new collectors alike, online and through email. His years of dedication to his work have paid off. Hence three months in Europe, not just in the cards, but booked!

Angus MacDonald show, sale and book signing at the Blumenschein, opens with a reception for the artist, on Saturday, October 5th from 3-5pm.

For more information please see the Taos Historic Museum’s site linked below.

taoshistoricmuseums

For more information on Angus MacDonald and to see his work, please visit his site linked below.

reatafineart/angusmacdonald

Angus MacDonald’s work is also available here: saatchiart/amac

The post Angus MacDonald At The Blumenschein appeared first on taoStyle.

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